Luke's World Tour

REFLECTIONS OF MY JOURNEY OVER THE PAST 18 MONTHS

2010-01-30T18:44:00.023+01:00

Reflections of my journey over the past 18 months
I am really not sure where to start. A year and a half has passed since I started this incredible journey around our beautiful planet. One might think a long time but actually in my life its not and the time has just flown by. I have seen and experienced so much, none of it money can buy and I have certainly changed and evolved in the process, I would like to think for the better. As you know it had been a dream of mine since i was 18 to travel the globe and i finally made it happen. Arriving in Guatemala on my first night it, i remember it clearly, nervous, anxious but excited, just me and my rucksack. A totally new experience for me to live this way, way out of my safety zone, moving from place to place with your house on your back, waking up each morning, so excited because each day is so brand new. You just haven't got a clue what is going to happen.

I learned quickly to one listen to my gut feeling/intuition to keep out of trouble (my intuition got stronger month by month) and two, go with the flow because when i didn't it was just too stressful (delays, rock slides, no space, poor food) and that way my journey was far more enjoyable because i did things i had not thought of doing, i just said Yes to almost everything. More often than not I just didn't know where I would end up and sleep that night. All new to me. Totally out of my comfort zone, ...but i was happy and free and I could be as spontaneous as i liked all the time! I was travelling from one adventure, one scared site, one beautiful natural location to the next. I often mixed it up staying with nature either on a Caribbean golden beach or a rocky mountain to a dense jungle or a sacred ancient site, or doing some crazy activity for the adrenaline rush, never getting bored, just enjoying every bit of it. i was in my element. Unbelievable.

I shall tell you some of my favourite places but honestly i will do it little justice - You have to go and experience it for yourself e.g. pick a place i mentioned, call me and then go on a 2-3week holiday. Anyway regards nature which is my passion i just loved sailing that turquoise sea with dolphins for 5 days from Panama to Colombia through the San Blas islands. It reminded me of my catamaran holidays with my friends back in the UK. Another big passion of mine is surfing so surfing in Costa Rica, Peru, New Zealand and Indonesia was me living my dream. i would stay a week at a time and just surf my ass off then hang out with the locals or other travellers for a few beers and food, talking about the waves. I was in heaven ;-). I also loved the diving and snorkeling, in fact i had never dived before and so decided to do my PADI on the Bay islands in Honduras. Amazing coral walls and loads of fish but the really big diving experience for me that unique and huge shipwreck in Bali, my god, i felt so fortunate. Resident Barracuda 3m, fan coral 1-2m, sea horses 5cm and more... My family always said i was a water baby and its true, i am. I love the sea and want to live by it in the future. Another great love of mine is the rain forests and i felt again very privileged to stay with Juan and his family in the Ecuadorian rain forest, in their village, being taught all about the different medicinal properties of the plants in the jungle, oh and partaking in an ayahuasca hallucinogenic ceremony. Also experiencing the pure primary rain forest on Volcano Madera in Nicaragua was magnificent too, arriving at the top and gazing down into the vast crater lake from where we ate our picnic.

Of course i cannot miss out any of the major cultural sites. Getting up at 4am and walking in the pitch dark through the rain forest in Guatemala listening to the loud and numerous howler monkeys on my way to the Mayan HQ, Tikal. WOW. I was lucky because they only open the gates to the tourists at 7am, and i was sitting high up on a sacred site at 5am watching the sunrise over the forest canopy, listening to the forest animals wake up for the new day. Extremely special. Machu Picchu in Peru, Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Borobudur in Indonesia were amazing sacred sites depicting important civilisations in our human history. I learnt a lot about our world and the different cultures. (loved Machu Picchu and Borobudur).

I should also share with you some of the not so nice things i saw because living in the comfort of your home in the west you may have little idea how at least a third of the world is still living today. It is simply astonishing and to be honest sickening to see that the modernity of the West doesn't seem to change their predicament. Of the 20 odd countries i visited, 17 were very poor and some were heart wrenching so. Poverty in whatever country I saw it, looked very similar. A family living in a wooden shack (3x3m) by a very small piece of land where they grew food possible with some animals. Sometimes i spent time with these poor people and realise in essence they are exactly the same as you and me. Warm hearts, just wanting food, work, peace and happiness. We are no different and honestly in 2009 it just shouldn't and needn't be like this.
I also saw a lot of pollution, waste and plastic being a major major problem, either being eaten by animals or just lining the roads, intersections, rivers and forests. This plastic comes from the western packaging and the global brands that are just everywhere, Coke, Pepsi, Pringles, Twix, Mars, Snickers....and are changing the local diets for the worse.

Deforestation is rife everywhere. My children will not see any primary rain forest if they travel around the world. The demand for timber, land, precious animals, driven by our consumerism is leaving nothing left and yet with proper management of natural resources, harvesting of trees, the labelling of sustainably produced products, this could be partially avoided. Coral reefs are another victim with ignorant travellers and tourist's alike standing and touching the reefs, thereby killing them (once a reef has been touched the invisible outer gel of sun protection starts to die and algae then grows on the coral finally killing it through consumption and all due to our ignorance. It was devastating to see how much coral has actually been destroyed, again our kids will see very little pure coral in its original state. I am sorry to be all doom and gloom, the messenger of bad news but living in a bubble will not bring about any positive change, it will in fact lead to further destruction so i rather you know and consciously decide to nothing about it and live with that or you make a change.

Having taken account of the above the following is now very clear to me. One, our consumer society is no longer 'fit for purpose'. We, the West (and the rest) cannot go on taking from the planet without sustainability kept firmly in mind with proper management of our scare resources. Two, we need auditing (much like finance auditors) and tracking of products (e.g. dove soap or pringles) to verify the sustainability or the raw materials e.g. oil palm and soya. If the product is not sustainably sourced (meaning slash & burn of the rain forest to make room to grow) a hefty green tax must be levied. The EU could lead the way on this. This will not only discourage cheap and dirty manufacturing that only considers economic factors but also guide consumers to the right clean choice whilst forcing companies to consider social and environmental factors as well. Today you ask for cheap, well cheap comes at a price. A price to the environment and the local people. Be aware.

So, after about nine months of travelling i had had enough of moving every 5 days. I wanted to do something else. That's when i decided to do voluntary work in the rain forests of Borneo. Working with and living with the locals was one of the richest and most rewarding experiences of my journey because i learnt so much about the Indonesians, the issues related to their forests regards all segments of society wanting a piece of the forest.

However after my six months in Latin America and six months in South East Asia i was excited about India and the change to come. The first 12 months were mainly all about external experiences as i have written above and that was my plan. To live it up, experience all the world had to offer me and all that i could find, however it was always my plan to work on my internal self once i had got to India and Nepal and that's exactly what i did. Although i was in India & Nepal for six months i saw very little of these countries it except when i went on that amazing motorbike ride in Ladak and the trekking in the Himalayas. All the rest of the time i was in retreats.

Like most of us i had never taken time out from the wheel, from the noise to get a closer look at who i am, what are my passions and what do i want from this precious life i have. To consciously look at where i now am at this very point in my life and in which direction i wish to go from here. In addition to my soul searching and personal growth there was also an element of healing to be done, as there often is with someone like me who has never invested any time in listening to my true self, my being. Coupled with teachings i took, the reading i did and the sometimes very personal conversations i had with new close friends i made and teachers i met, the change in me over the past 18 months was predominantly internal, not external.

I learnt there are a few key questions in life that i must ask myself and there are some simple ingredients to follow for truly lasting happiness and be aware that ignorance is the root cause of all suffering. Firstly one must take time to ask and answer questions.
- Who am I? (your archetypes) What is my passion, my gift? What excites me most in life?
- What is my life's purpose? What is my vocation, my calling? (nurse, carpenter, father)
- What am i living for? What are my goals for myself and for others?
- Am i doing the right thing with my life right now (e.g. job/sector, relationships)?
- How can i live my life so that i will have no regret? So that i have conviction i used my life meaningfully.

To find answers to these questions one must go within, you must first allow your mind to become silent possible through meditation (see previous blog entry Mc Loed Ganj where i explain how to meditate. Meditate for 10-15mins) then ask your question. Be patient with yourself. You will find that the answer will appear from the silence within. Its that little voice, that gut feeling. If you are having trouble allowing the silence of the mind to surface a different technique is to ask the same question repeatedly, 15-20 times and each time write done what comes to mind but you cannot repeat any of the answers to that same question.

Regarding true happiness i understand and have found the following key pointers to be crucial. Firstly you need sincerely go through the above work, ask these questions of yourself, listening to your heart, your being and your intuition to know your passion, to understand your calling. You may already know this. Normally this calling involves helping other people, animals and/or the planet. Why, because try happiness comes from giving, from helping others. In turn you will receive an abundance of love, money, happiness. So firstly listen to your heart. Secondly one should use the power of intentional thought to help co-create your future and bring into life what you want to happen. That means bring the attention of your mind on the intentions you have. Intentional thought, also know as prayer (energy) responds to your thought in signs. Signs such as conversations, meetings, inspirational thoughts and coincidences. By listening to your heart and comprehending the signs from the universe you not only co-create your future but also stay on your right path which ultimately will bring you joy and happiness. Another key point that i must share with you is this, happiness comes i have learnt and found from within, not from outside. How we react to situations, people, events, is up to you and me. I can react emotionally and agitated and cause myself and others pain or I can centre, reflect, then respond. Either way it is you, your mind, you choose how to reply. In addition external pleasures and material things are short lived enjoyments that should not be relied upon for long lasting happiness. Enjoy chocolate, job, relationships, cars, holidays but knowing that everything is impermanent and that attachment to these things will ultimately cause suffering. I found these teachings in India and Nepal to be the most inspirational event in my whole journey. Furthermore, we all need to receive love, give love and love our self. This is also crucial to long lasting happiness.

So now i have been back in the UK over a month now and i am slowly adapting to life here although sometimes my travels seem far away. I have made the decision to follow my heart and i will change sectors, leaving my IT/Telecoms career and focusing on the environment. I am not sure which area specifically, whether it will be renewable energies, recycling, waste or water management but i have started my research and have faith that with hard work from my side creating opportunities and looking out for signs i will find my right way.

I do believe individuals can make a difference and can make a real contribution to life in a positive meaningful way. Be truly grateful for what you have, be generous with what yourself (time, words, thoughts & actions) and what you have and realise we all want happiness, no one wants suffering. Some steps might need to be taken in the form of corrective action, setting some short and long term goals. Its ok to start again. I am and I'm 37! The point is i am no super human, i am an ordinary person, i did learn how to listen to my heart and i have built the courage to follow my heart (my passion). These are the two ingredients to living a lasting happy and fulfilling life. It is that simple. You can do this too! So if you have any dreams, listen to your heart and follow them. Start NOW!

Emmerson said, "What lies ahead of us and behind us pales in comparison to what lies within us''. Think about this.

I hope you found my blog interesting, perhaps even inspiring. Do contact me if you have a question and feel free to write up your comments. I wish you all the best in making the most of this precious life we all are privileged to have.

Love, Light & Laughter,

Luke. February 2010.

NEPAL - KOPAN MONASTRY

2010-01-03T10:47:00.021+01:00

NEPAL - KOPAN MONASTERY

I had heard about Kopan Monastery (http://www.kopan-monastry.com/monastry.com/) and the annual month long course they offer on Buddhism from the teachers at Tushita. To cut a long story short i managed to get a spot on the course which i felt very privileged and grateful for. I was not yet quite ready to come back and this final month would give me that time to mentally prepare. So, again no more sex, drugs, rock n roll, meat, alcohol and some periods of silence. 10 days in fact during the month long course. Missing all the above didn't bother me, i was getting used to even liking it.

Kopan monastery began its journey teaching western students about Buddhism in 1969 located high up on the same hill it is today, just outside the centre of Kathmandu. Back then there were tents and a large marquee for the teachings. Today there is a magnificent main Gompa (prayer/teaching hall) and two smaller Gompas with some 400 resident monks from Tibet, Nepal, India and Bhutan studying the traditional monastic education of philosophy, morality and the meaning of life. There is now even a school there offer local children a free education paid for by the teachings offered to westerners. (Picture is of Venerable Thubten Dondrup)

We were some 250 students enrolled in this course from all over the world such as Europe, the US, Australia, Israel and Asia. Our teacher was a middle aged Australian called Lama Lundrup. He was teaching a course that was an introduction to Buddhism similar to my 10-day retreat in Tushita but supposedly slightly more in-depth. Well that was what was sold to me. I was fortunate to be giving a small dorm with two other cool room mates, Simon from Denmark and Michael from Scotland (other dorms existed of some 20 beds). Each night the three of us would have lengthy discussions about what we had learned that day, however it soon became evident that none of us were impressed by the quality or level of teaching upon the subjects. We soon realised our teacher was teaching not from a position of realisation or knowing but of intellect. He had learnt the subject matter and then recited what he knew of the subject from limited perspectives. Rarely was there an inspirational lesson and to be honest i thought the teachings were quite poor. Although the teacher meant well and did have good intentions i felt he was not the right man for the job. I am sorry.

Aside the location itself, the fellow students, the facilities (library), the food, the staff were all great, but the key reason why people including myself had travelled for miles and days to come here was to be inspired further on a spiritual level by the teachings. It didn't happen with such depth which was a shame on the one hand however Kopan itself is an amazing location to be, to reflect on ones life's journey. Seperately i had a very good team discussion group and learnt a lot from these fellow students (see group pic).

On a personal note having that last month on the hilltop of Kopan before going home, that time at the end of my 18months gave me some quality time, some space to reflect upon my journey which i have written about in my last entry, about the next steps in my life. What direction i wish to consciously move life towards. I made some great friends with which we discussed several subjects, exchanged opinions and learnt from each other. I will stay in contact with these friends. I remember one night Matt from the US, Michael, Simon and I put the world to rights for some 2-3hrs. A great conversation, where some good ideas were aired and discussed. I feel that with these types of people in our generation together will make a positive difference in this dark age we live in, i hope a positive change now for our children to come.

I have written the title of a few books below if you are interested to read up on Buddhism. You might be pleasantly surprised! I also have some teachings on CD format if anyone would like a copy. I am now writing my final thoughts of my journey and will post them shortly. I will inform you all. Take care, Luke.

Some great books

Reflections on a Mountain Lake by Tenzin Palmo

What Makes you NOT a Buddhist by Jamyang Khyentse

The Art of Happiness by The Dalai Lama

NEPAL - HIMALAYAS

2009-12-28T17:47:00.021+01:00

NEPAL - HIMALAYAS
Another nightmarish long uncomfortable journey brought me from India into Nepal (I think i am done with these long travels now), however driving through the countryside in the south of Nepal up to Pokhara was breath taking. Large sunny grassy meadows with trees, streams, i thought i could have been somewhere in Europe not Nepal. 19hrs later i arrived in Pokhara at 3am, almost a broken man, I managed to find somewhere to sleep. God knows how!

The next day i was meeting up with a mate, another couple and some other travelers knew who also had just arrived here. We were going to trekking, big time, in the Himalayas. Come on! We met at the Busy Bee pub and excitedly planned our trek to Annapurna Base Camp some 4100m high. Remember Ben Nevis is only bloody 1300m! It was to be a ten day trek, the longest I had ever done but the team and I were up for it. After two days of heavy rain in Pokhara we finally headed off with trekking permits & maps in hand and a box of snickers. We were prepared.

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)

The six of us, me, Chris, James, Ben, Karnit and Poppy headed off, day one being an up hill climb (every day was!) up many steps, our spirits high. We didn’t have a porter with us just our day bags, we didn’t have a guide with us either but decided to ask the locals for directions and use our great map. However it was only our first afternoon that we nearly took a wrong direction if it wasn’t for a kind local helping us but honestly after day two that the trails are very well trodden and straight forward. We didn’t have any problems finding our way from then on but that's no to say the trek was easy. Very far from it as we soon found out.

The countryside was absolutely breathtaking so although i wasn't sitting in lotus position on a mat meditating, one just look at all the beauty, the vast green valleys & mountains, waterfalls either side and thick primary forest was enough to stop the minds endless chatter. However we all found it quite tough a part from James the Gazelle. Literally thousands of steps going up and down, the incline was too steep for a path! No kidding and one day when i looked at our map, in the bottom corner it stated that the level of our trek we chose was medium to strenuous. I couldn’t believe it, who chooses a trek in the Himalayas that is strenuous. Not me, that’s for Chizal. Dam Rizal! But hey I was on it. Howevere by the end of day two our dear friend from Greece, Poppy, found it all too much and decided not to continue on. We managed to find her a good guide that night to walk her back. She was struggling so all in all I think it was for the best.

Meanwhile along the way we found these deserted lovely little guest houses on route where we stayed. It was fantastic not having any other tourist around with us in the mountains. It was due to us leaving so soon after the rains had stopped. (On the way back the villages were mobbed). It got colder and colder the higher we trekked with no hot showers available but we didn’t care. Accommodation was simple and cheap but thank god for the blankets otherwise i would have frozen. Food was ok but expensive, however one understands porters need to bring it up here which i swear is no easy task so pay the price.

We were heading towards the white snow capped mountains and nothing could stop us, so we thought. James the gazelle set a breath taking pace while the rest of us were just enjoying the scenery whilst trying to keep up somewhat. We were very lucky with both the weather, it being sunny everyday and with clear starry nights and the tranquility (lack of tourists). I really felt that the pace of life here is slow aside from the fact there are on trekkers max 5-6 months of the year, the Himalayas are still a sleepy place on the global map. The remaining five of us were doing well; we had a good map and good information about how long it was between different villages, we had budgeted our money right so we decided to have a mid trek break and stop along the way. We stopped off at this incredible hot spring bath by the river where we spent the afternoon totally chilling and relaxing the muscles. OH MY GOD the hot water was bliss! We then bravely dipped into the ice cold river and then back into the hot springs, beautiful.

After that short but sweat break we headed on up. None of us had given much thought to altitude sickness, knowing that it affects everyone differently and we wont know what will happen until we reach ABC. Well arriving at MBC (Machhapuchhrie Base Camp) we were cold and tired but still felt fine. It's 3700m up, so quite high. Higher than most mountains in Europe. It was at MBC that i felt i was now entering the real Himalayas. All the views before were of lush green mountain ravines and valleys but now we were finally experiencing the snowy mountains. This is what i had been waiting for. We got ourselves sorted with beds then got cards out, ordered some hot drinks & food and shortly thereafter beaded down for the night in anticipation of the last push to ABC the next day. That night we didn’t wake up at dawn like most mornings to see the sunrise we had a lie and headed off around nine for the last two hour slow trek.

It was one of the most beautiful days trekking and i took my time, stopping to rest and take in the mountains. Once again i felt privileged to be here and experience this. The hard work made it all the worthwhile. I was sitting on the banks of this stream looking out across the valley to the famous Fishtail mountain, Machhapuchhrie peak at 8000m high. I was surrounded by snowy
mountains, finally! Sitting there just beholding the views. It’s so easy to be at peace here, to be one. (I hope the video below does a little justice to this awesome nature.) We all arrived safely at ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) some 4100m high, yet the peak of ABC sits above 8000m. Obviously we didn’t attempt to climb that, i would have said no to that honest, that would have been a tad too much!

Anyway, getting to ABC we get a room, did some little walks around base camp then later order some food and bring out the cards. While we're playing simple cards James starts taking ages to make decisions on what to play. Most unlike him, so i give him a hard time and start taking the piss. We all took the piss to be fair but then we soon realised the gazelle was starting to feel the affects of altitude sickness! Chris was next, then me. Brain not working to well, very hazy, slow and i hadn’t smoked any funny cigarettes. Honest. In fact all of us felt a little strange so we bedded down early again that night, but only after doing some serious star gazing, it didn’t affect our sleeping as it can do sometimes but we did all feel a bit wobbly. Its important to acclimatise that’s why we slept one night at MBC previously to get used to the lack of oxygen in the air. Clearly it wasn't enough.

Mission safely accomplished we all headed back to pokhara taking the following days nice and easy. It was yet again another memorable time, I would like to come back to Nepal and trek the Annapurna circuit which takes 19 days! But i will leave that adventure for another time.

SARANGKOT
My time might have been running out, meaning i would have bone home already if i had not got confirmation that i had a place on the annual Buddhist retreat course at Kopan monastery near Katmandu. So i decided to stay for this final month but the course started in three weeks so i chilled in Pokhara for a few days then headed off into the countryside and mountains again. I found a small guesthouse run by Moti and his lovely wife Maya and their four daughters. I decided to stay with the family and help out. where i could. We painted the guesthouse, made and painted four signs, created a new menu and some flyer's on my laptop, i explained the concept of balancing the accounts (monthly Income from assets vs. monthly costs incurred) and i really enjoyed helping out and being with the family. However it being a simple magnificent and peaceful location it was easy for me to reflect on the past year and a half and the years to come and what i really want to do with my precious life. Strange as it may sound to you, i loved my time with Moti, Maya and their four girls as much as i did trekking. Just being with myself, helping the family where i could. Wonderful.

TIBET in INDIA

2009-11-12T07:47:00.010+01:00

TIBET in INDIA

I decided to write about Tibet and what has been going on their recently simply because I could not ignore it and I really wanted to share this information with you (ignorance is no a good excuse). It pained me so much when I spoke with and listened to the shopkeepers, nuns and other Tibetans I met in Mc Loed Ganj, telling me their accounts of how they got here in India, what they went through to get here and why they left Tibet. I voluntarily taught English to some Tibetan refugees in Mc Loed Ganj and heard more stories; I also visited the Tibetan museum here and learnt a lot, so this is what my knowledge is based upon.

In the late 1940's the government of Tibet informed the world of an immenent threat, namely the invasion of their country by China. Furthermore, the Tibetan government specifically called upon the UN, US, UK and India for help. Their calls were tragically ignored, i don't know why but China's timing was perfect. It was just after World War II and most countries were busy reconstructing themselves. Regardless, the perceived threat was real, their calls were ignored and what follows is my understanding of what happened next and is ongoing today!

You must understand that Tibet is a very old country. It has been an independent country for more than 2000 years with its own civil services, legal system, currency, army and police force. There are even archaeological findings tracing human settlements as far back as 8000 years ago. Today there are 6 million Tibetans dispersed among different countries. Commonly known as the "Roof of the World", lofty snow capped mountains, rocky ranges, large plateaus and forests make up the natural landscape. A country rich in natural resources, more than two-thirds the size of India (2500km long east-west), with five of Asia's greatest rivers originating here including the Mekong and Yangtze. Tibet is vast.

The relationship with China dates back a long time. In the 8th century Tibet occupied the ancient capital of Xian, other times China had influence over Tibet, both were for a time under foreign rule but Tibet was never ever a part of China. Until recently one of the first tasks announced by the newly-established People's Republic of China in 1949 was the 'liberation' of Tibet. Strange, they were already free! Soon after they invaded. On October 7th, 1950, China invaded Tibet with 40,000 soldiers under the pre-tense of 'economic liberation'. (What bullshit). Attempts made by the 6000 strong poorly equipped Tibetan army to resist the Chinese advance failed, whilst the Tibetan government tried to halt the invasion through diplomatic means. This also failed and in May 1951 Tibet was forced to sign a 17 point agreement which declared the 'peaceful liberation' and annexation of Tibet to China. How is this possible? How is this allowed by the international community?

To date China's efforts to control Tibet has entailed mass-scale physical destruction of some 6000 monasteries, temples and precious scriptures, worse still the systematic eradication of Tibetan culture and religion which is ongoing today. Chinese policies are aimed at erasing the Tibetan culture, religion and ultimately its identity. The exploitation of Tibet's natural resources, damming of rivers and the massive deforestation for timber are happening now. Parts of Tibet are also now used as nuclear test sites and dumping grounds for nuclear waste. Tibetan protesters are arrested, tortured in prison and held captive for a number of years before release. So far 1.2million Tibetans have been killed by the Chinese and day by day the Chinese are diluting the local population already having more Chinese in Tibet than Tibetans and one policeman for every 20 Tibetans.

During my voluntary teaching in Mc Loed Ganj, one Tibetan girl recounted to me in detail her personal and traumatic journey to India from her country. This girl is now 21, but she was a 19 year old student when she was arrested by the Chinese for protesting at their occupation of her country. She told me how they tortured her, handcuffing her hands behind her back, tying her to the ceiling and beating her. She told me she fell unconscious several times during these torture sessions. The girl seemed quite numb and expressionless. My heart just wanted to reach out to her and remove all this pain. She was held prisoner for three years. When finally released she returned to her village and family but didn't stay there long. She wanted to leave her country to try and find a better life, so she made the journey, like 100,000 Tibetans have tried to make, to Nepal, Bhutan or India. She headed for India via Nepal. It took her 18 days to get to Nepal; she sold her clothes for food along the way and was also robbed of her belongings while asleep. Once finally in Nepal she got a bus on to India and Mc Loed Ganj. She is now being supported and regaining her life with help from the Tibetan government in exile and His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, the spiritual and political leader of Tibet.

Separately, a shopkeeper i became friends with told me about his persecution in Tibet by the Chinese and finally his decision to leave. He walked for 29 days, over mountain ranges, across rivers, before he got to Nepal and onto India. Although now a shopkeeper with wife and children, looking into his soul, reading his body language, he was a very sad and broken man. I can see him now when I write this. I can see them both. Despicable and sad.

What disturbs me most about all this is that it is going on in the 21st Century. I know this is not an isolated incident; hey we got America in Iraq. The thing is Tibet is a Buddhist country and has a culture of no harm, non-violence. If the world 'allows' China to walk in and take over a country, who is going to stop them doing it again or another country from doing it? The UN? (I must read up one day and find out what all these tax free income earners actually do at the UN for us with our money). It is absolutely criminal in this day and age, with the UN, the EU etc, that this is overlooked, allowed to happen. I'm disgusted by this.

Regarding the future of Tibet, Tibetans echo the wishes and tireless work of the Dalai Lama, to have a free independent democratically run Tibet again. The very minimum should be an autonomous zone of peace before the Tibetan identity is completely destroyed and Tibet as a nation disappears from this world. Today we are witnessing the genocide of the Tibetan culture and identity. However both India and Nepal have shown and offered great support to the Tibetans in helping them re-build and regain their country. Furthermore with the growing support by many Chinese for Tibet’s independence and continued international pressure we must get China out of Tibet. It’s our duty as fellow humans to support the Tibetan people and their fight for freedom, just as you and I enjoy and might sometimes take for granted.

That is why i shared this with you, so you could also be aware and speak and act accordingly.

If you would like to learn more visit http://www.thetibetmuseum.org/

Of course feel free to write me any comments you may have.

INDIA - Ladak

2009-09-27T14:23:00.013+02:00

Ladak, India

Ladak was very special, unexpectedly so. The scenery, the motorbike trip, the company. Just beautiful!

Having spent a month in Mc Loed Ganj in the company of some lovely fellow travelers from the Buddhist course, it was time to move on, but this time not to study but to travel and explore a little hidden gem of India, the province of Jammu & Kashmir and the Himalayas. I took an excruciatingly long bus ride (20hrs) from Mc Loed Ganj to Manali through some of the most amazing mountain landscape I have ever seen. Having two rock slides along our journey, forcing us to sleep in the parked bus until the road was cleared the next morning doesn’t help. Then a second 20hr bus ride (shows how keen I was) from Manali to Leh over the second highest pass in the world (5300m). Leh, the regional capital town of Ladak is a mainly Buddhist part of India and yet in Leh there's a mix of Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. Leh and the region is only open about three months of the year to outsiders due to its high location and snow covered roads and passes, so managing to get there is quite special.

I met a fellow traveler, Laia from Spain, on the way up and I told her of my wish to rent a motorbike for a week or so and explore the Himalayan mountain range. Laia was taken by the idea and in Manali we were already discussing the practicalities of the road trip. How exciting. When I rent a motorbike, I always do so in two's (safety), now I had a partner in crime!

We arrived very late in Leh, slept and over the next few days managed to finally find a decent Royal Enfield bike with at least a KM gauge that works (for petrol & distances) breaks, lights and saddle bags. Perfect. We had a map and by now a rough idea of where we would venture first and then go from there.

Leaving Leh we headed for Lamayuru, apparently a few hours away. The roads started off ok. Ladak as a region has quite a military presence due to it being located so close to the border with Pakistan, and so with the military presence there are some good tarmac roads. However, in the blink of an eye the road suddenly changes to rocks and a complete full on dirt track made for Defender Land Rovers. This change can catch one off guard, certainly at speed!! It caught us of guard a few times. Laia and I braved the very poor roads and continued on following a beautiful green glacial river almost all the way to our destination, finally arriving some 5-6hrs later to what we thought was the end of the world. A small little mountain village, at the end of a terrible dirt track on top of a mountain in the middle of now where. We managed to find the only hostel in the village, arriving at dusk, a lovely little but very expensive hostel. We ate and just slept, feeling a little warn out but happy we made it safely to our first destination. It was cold that night as we found out but the stars were amazing. A vast clear dark sky depicting with ease the Milky Way and other solar systems. I could have stayed out for hours and star gazed but it was just too cold.

The next morning we visited the Lamayuru Gompa, the Tibetan Buddhist temple. A quiet peaceful temple that had been built 100's of years ago, I think I also read the highest built temple in India. The temple had such a calm energy I wanted to stay there for hours but later in the morning we headed off.

We followed the beautiful green river with huge mountains on either side for a few of hours before coming to the mountain village of Dah. I have to say it was one of the most scenic roads I have driven along, certainly in my top 10 (see pics). Well to be honest it took us ages to find the entrance of the hostel in Dah because there was nothing, no road just a couple of hidden steps Someone kindly showed us the way. Once there though it was just idyllic. A small farm located up high on a small flat plateau with a huge river to the right and vast mountains on either side. The farm was filled to the rafters with apricot, apple and pear trees, tomatoes, beans, corn, cabbages, rice, etc, etc. Butterflies, bees and insects flying around everywhere, birds singing, fresh water flowing down from the mountains, oh and a solar panel for light. They were in fact quite self sufficient but you need to be if you choose to live in the middle of now where. It didn't take us long to realize we had stumbled across a gem of a place and decided to stay a couple of days. It was so relaxing, reading & writing in the sun and our hosts were very kind. They cooked the best food Laia and I had had in India to date. Delicious vegetarian dishes with rice. Our host took me on a trip around the local village, where i saw lots of fruit & vegetable gardens and the huge vast mountain range behind. The place felt to me that it continued on just like many generations before not being particularly affected by the outside world. I like finding these kinds of places.Laia and i just chilled out under the big blue skies.

A couple of days later we headed over Khardung La, the highest and probably coldest motor able pass in the world at some 5602m high and onto the Nubra valley and the village of Hunder. It would be a grave understatement if i told you the road was ok, to be honest we were both a little scared at times with the road dropping a km down sometimes. Although we were sometimes tired we managed well and didn't come off the bike once. But if we had we would have needed two people just to pick it, it weighs an absolute ton. (Luckily we never had any bike trouble - i put that down to great driving hahaha).

Nubra valley is quite different from the other scenery we passed, with a vast green expanse of grass at the bottom of the valley with huge sand dunes. Weird. A beautifully clean river ran through the valley with mountains on all sides. When i sat there and just observed, i could here silence. Absolutely nothing. I don't experience that too often, it was great for meditating. We stumbled across this lovely organic retreat that had large tents with beds, well Laia was smitten, having never slept in a tent before, so what the heck, we decided to stay their a couple of nights.

We ventured out one day into the valley, walking and paddling in the water. Honestly, it felt like the end of the world again...i guess it’s just this region of India that feels more like Tibet or Nepal possibly, but certainly not like crazy India. It’s been left behind, to meander at its own pace, void of the madness of the rest of India. We both felt that the region of Ladak was well worth making the grueling 40hr+ journey to. A place in another time.

Unwillingly we headed back through the Nubra valley and over Khardung pass to Leh. This week Laia and I spent together was really special to me. Definitely a highlight of my travels. We were a team, a great team and really enjoyed each others company. We laughed so much and talked about all sorts. We became good friends during those 10 days. Laia was a courageous passenger, not being too scared, i managed the bike well and we got to all our places safely and in one piece. It’s an amazing feeling to be free; being on the bike only accentuates that feeling, which we fortunately all have. Freedom. Often taken for granted. Live in the now and appreciate your freedom friends, and if you like and can, travel. Its great food for the soul.

INDIA - Mc Loed Ganj

2009-08-31T08:24:00.016+02:00

Mc Loed Ganj, India
I finally left Rishikesh but not before doing a 2 day level 1 course in Reiki. To be honest I knew and know very little about Reiki. I had had one treatment in Brussels by a friend Gaelle, one treatment by a nice girl I met in Indonesia, Kristin and both aroused my interests further so I decided to have a treatment in Rishikesh, which I did. After so me consideration I decided to take part in this entry level 1 course. From what I understand Reiki primarily focuses on the body (as opposed to mind) and involves the healing of a person through using the hands and the energies of the universe. I know, sounds a bit far out, bare with me. Reiki aims to replenish the energy centers with new clean energy from the universe but also heal parts of the body (knee, back etc) wherever needed with new energy. Furthermore, practitioners can feel where treatment is needed with some receiving visualizations during the treatment that they can later explain to you what they saw and then you may discuss what the imagery or visions might mean to you. It does sound a bit all in the air I know but as I mentioned before I just want to have an open mind, see what's out there and try a few new things. Who knows from there.

Energy & The Chakras
I will try and explain how the body and its energies work with Reiki. I should also perhaps first mention that modern science is now just understanding and acknowledge the presence of energy within the body and the functions of these energy centers. The body has three energy channels running through it located along the spinal cord from the bottom of our spine to the top of our head. The right side is female, vitality, the left side male, mental force. The middle channel is the spiritual force. Energy is constantly passing through 7 energy centers (Chakras) of which there are seven.
The first, Root chakra, located at the perineum between the anus and balls for the guys and on the posterior side of the cervix for women. It’s connected to the grounded energy of mother nature and our physical life. The second chakra located at the bottom of the spine is concerned with our survival instincts, our libido and creativity. The third located opposite the navel is self-esteem/confidence, personal power and ego. These three chakras are all related to the body. The fourth chakra, the heart chakra is the crossroads or intersection between the three chakras below and the three chakras above that are in turn related to the mind. The heart chakra, being an important chakra relates to all our deep emotions such as love, compassion, envy, jealously etc and also your motivations and (private) agendas. Its w here we keep our wounds deeply buried ...but you know that ha-ha! The fifth chakra located behind the throat is ambition, choice (& why you make those choices), will power, communication, assertiveness. The sixth chakra, often referred to as the Third Eye lies just between your eye brows by the pineal gland. It is the zone of intelligence and intellect. The seventh chakra is intuition and any relationship or connection you might have with god or the universe. Reiki aims at replenishing the body with clean new energy and also balancing the chakras. (Second pic is a photo taken of someone’s energy aura and chakras).

So I did the course, I did find it interesting and on a subtle level I did feel changes taking place within me when I received the treatment and also when I gave it to another student. I had different sensations in my hands when I gave the treatment in different areas. I will def do self-practice with it (I have the technique forever now, we can all do this) and any friend that asks me. I might do level 2. don’t know yet but I am glad I did it. http://www.reiki-for-holistic-health.com/index.html

Tushita Buddhist Retreat
After my reiki in Rishikesh I took an awful bone shattering night bus toMc Loed Ganj, sometimes traveling at 20km/hr on the bumpiest of roads. I had bruises on my arse, didn't sleep a wink and worst of all I couldn't get to my supply of valium because my bag was packed away. Oh well... I got intoMc Loed Ganj the next morning at 6am. Had some breakfast, felt like crap and made my way to this retreat. It was a 10 day introductory course to Buddhism. Tushita, this Buddhist retreat I later found out is a world famous for its teachings of Tibetan Buddhism and meditation (http://www.tushita.info/). People just flew in for the cours e on a month’s holiday. A very serenely quiet and beautiful place, located some 2000ft at the foot of the Himalayas with cheeky monkeys in its trees. We all had food and accommodation provided, there were about 45 of us of which 80% where Israelis with a couple of Brits, Kiwis, Aussies US & EU people. It turned out to be a fantastic group of people.

I was always interested to learn more about Buddhism, more so than Hinduism or any other religion, purely because I thought they had some interesting philosophical views to life and how to live ones life and their authority on meditation. So I checked in, again another 10 days of silence but I guess I was used to that now after the Vipassana. I found out the course is split evenly between the teachings of the Buddhism and the practicing of different meditation techniques, which I found actually worked out well. A good mix. A high level view of the main subjects was taught. These subjects included the mind and how it works, suffering, impermanence, karma, re-birth, death, ethics and emptiness. Some of the subjects I found less interesting whereas others such as ethics, the mind and concentration, attachment & impermanence very were insightful.

Basically Buddhism is concerned with the scientific study of the mind and how it works both on a conscious and unconscious level. This study started some 2500 years ago when Siddharta Gautama, a man born in Nepal studied this and later gained enlightenment. (Buddhism is based on his 84,000 teachings during the 40years he taught). He also taught a very truthful philosophy of how to live a decent, happy and rewarding life. It's not a religion and there's no god, they believe in the laws of physics and nature. Its more science based on how the mind, planet, universe all works.

Psychology to date as I understand still has little understanding of how the mind actually works and the concept of who is I. It is predominantly concerned with how we deal with emotions and not on how the mind works. Science today however is now beginning to understand that there is more than we see including more dimensions (superstring theory -video). The concept of emptiness and Quantum Physics is the same.

Buddhism believes that "the ultimate truth is that everything is empty of existing independently. Nothing exists by itself or in a vacuum. Everything is interconnected and exists in dependence upon parts, labels, names, causes & conditions and perceiving consciousness".

The essence of Buddha's teaching is that suffering exists (sickness, depression, ignorance, greed, hatred, loneliness, stress, not getting what one wants or losing what one cherishes), that all sufferings have a cause and that the causes can be removed by following the ethics he describes along with concentration (meditation) he taught that in time leads to wisdom and enlightenment (intuitive awareness of reality, free of suffering and negative qualities). Looking more deeply into suffering and the causes we are taught that they lie within ourselves and not outside. What that implies is it’s not the other persons fault, or the situation or the object, it’s actually our reaction to it that causes our suffering, knowing that all things are impermanent. Its not saying don’t enjoy external sensory pleasures but just beware there temporary in nature so the less psychologically attached you are to them the less pain you'll experience if/when they go away. Capri Diem is still my motto!

The mind is non-physical in nature and yet it is intrinsically connected to the body by subtle physical energies which also control our movement and vital functions. This relationship helps explain why physical sickness and discomfort can affect our state of mind and conversely how mental attitudes can give rise to and heal physical problems. As you know yourself the mind is full of very momentary thoughts (mind chatter) and emotions, rising and passing all the time and that is partly why meditation is used. To observe, quieten and control the mind. We practiced many types of meditation such as guided meditation (the teacher talks you through a subject e.g. forgiveness), single-minded concentration (vipassana) and visualizations. So we have to begin by observing and knowing our own individual nature so we can solve our problems. That’s the headline summary I took from the course.

I must say from a learning, growth and healing perspective it was the most insightful and rewarding thing I have done since my travels began some 15 months ago! I took so much away such as the ethics and how to live right.

The concept of attachment and us creating suffering by being too attached to things, people or situations knowing they will change because there are in fact impermanent like everything of the planet (nature, weather, jobs, relationships etc). Attachment being "I want you to make me happy" Love being "I want you to be happy". Craving is us always wanting and aversion being all the things we don’t like, or at least in our current reality believe we don’t like. Slowly I notice when and how my mind reacts to situations, things, people positively, neutral or negatively. If you believe Buddhism it’s said the cause of both harmony and disharmony lies within us not outside, so this is like an exploration of ones mind and body to understand the reality of ones self. If I take anything from this course its the Ethics & Concentration and just try to live more in the now and be present and aware (mindful). If there's any wisdom to come I am sure it will come of its own accord :-).

Below I have copied a poem, Zoe a lovely Scottish girl in our course wrote and read out to us. I hope you like. I have also copied a piece of text from the forgiveness meditation. Almost all the class was in tears including me:-(. I've also added a small intro to meditation.

There is a highly recommended book by a young English woman of 20yrs from east London that goes to Tibet, ....and stays there a long time and ...well, just buy it ($20) and see (I did). It might waken something in you. "Reflections on a Mountain Lake" by Tenzin Palmo. I now know of other good books if your interested, also recommended is How to Meditate by Kathleen McDonald.

Zoe's Poem
Caught in the midst of this fake reality. Shading over lines that aren't really there. Whens there's not even comfort in finding a hard place. Look for something soft but its already changed, gone. The power of wisdom has crept over like a mist, Searching for the path, unsure of it's way. Swiftly there's a glimpse, then it's lost, then it's found.Unsure of when i'll next get to sit down....Now is found.

Forgiveness meditation (text taken from the spoken guided meditation in class)
With all my heart I forgive you for whatever you may have done, intentionally or unintentionally by your actions, words or thoughts that has caused me pain. I forgive you... and I ask that you forgive me for whatever I have done intentionally or unintentionally to you by my actions, my words or my thoughts. I ask your forgiveness. May you be happy free and joyful. May we both open our hearts and minds to meet in love and understanding. As we grow in wholeness together.

How to calm the mind
Sit cross legged on the floor or bed, you can put a cushion under your knees for support and you should put a cushion under your bum and try and straighten your back. Ideally by pushing your pelvis a little forward to help straighten your back. I've found that when I do find the right comfortable position gravity just helps me and my back sits on its vertebrate ok, at least for 15-20mins.

When comfy close your eyes and just breathe normally through your nose with your mouth closed. You should just try and focus your mind on your breath that’s all. At first it will probably be difficult; it was for me at the Vipassana. It took me three days to get a bit of a grip on my mind so that when a thought did pop up I would be aware and bring my concentration back on to my breath. And each time a thought pops up bring your concentration back to your breath. Thoughts & sensations continually rise and pass, none remain. At a later stage you will have more and more silence in your mind, it feels good, the silence I mean. You'll always have the odd random thought but less. On the practical side this will give you much better concentration at work for example and help you work more efficiently. Just do this concentration meditation, this breathing for 5-10 or 15mins a day. Morning is best (same place, same time). ...and when a stressy sitch comes just be quiet for a few moments with your breath then act upon it and not react if poss... .

Meditation upon opening the heart
We are not talking about the physical heart here by the way, you must have guesses it’s the heart chakra, the heart energy centre. Again start with 5mins of just concentrating on breathing through your nose, and then take a deep breath into your upper chest, filling the whole cavity with air. When it’s full your breath will naturally pause for a second. At that point, take your attention inside to the middle of your chest, in the area of your heart. The wait a moment. As you do so, deeply ask to grow. Repeat this process. At first it might feel tight but later you might feel a subtle vibration and quiet sweetness - it will expand. Be aware of any relaxation and well being you feel too. It will feel deeper later because what you nurture grows (both happy and sad). This is the basic meditation for opening up your heart. I wonder if you'll see any changes in your life (or more importantly in your mental attitude and ability to concentrate).

INDIA - Rishikesh

2009-08-14T14:15:00.009+02:00

INDIA

RISHIKESH
Arriving in Delhi was a culture shock after 6 months in Asia. My flight from KL to Delhi was fine, arrived in Delhi airport and got into an old Buick type cab called an Ambassador, driven by a man possessed that drove at the speed light to my hostel in the Tibetan quarter. He could not read, write, speak English or read any maps i had. Interesting I thought. Wow, India.

Neither the location nor the hostel were nice, dirty - litter everywhere, flies everywhere and it was so hot, 40C/90% humidity. I remember getting off the plan feeling like someone had placed an industrial strength supercharged hairdryer to my back. This was the first time i experienced hot wind like that - and i hadn't even had a Vindaloo curry yet. ...the monsoons hadn't arrived yet, not they would make things any cooler. A month late this year.

I realised very quickly that I was not going to stay in Delhi long and on that same first day I managed to find out how I could get an AC train ticket to Rishikesh in the north, bought the ticket, leaving the next day. Great. The train journey itself was fine but I arrived at 11pm having had to get a bus from the train station one onwards to Rishikesh. I found out on arrival that the ashram I wanted to stay was closed this month to foreigners due to the Shiva festival. Then some random guy came to my help and I managed to find a room and some food, settling in around midnight.

When i woke up the next day there were tens of 1000's of men in orange, religious tourists, all in Rishikesh for the annual Shiva festival. Oh my God. Full on. Busy busy busy. Well i finally managed to find a nice hostel on the banks of Rishikesh, away from some of the noise so then I could venture into the chaos as and when i liked.

I should tell you before i continue that my time in India was always going to be a spiritual journey of self discovery. I felt this and new this even before i started my journey over a year ago. It was just meant to be, that this time was for me, for me inside and not so much about visiting sites. Of course l'd experience India along the way no doubt, but my priority here is me.

Rishikesh being the world capital of Yoga, had many ashrams offering yoga and i managed to find a very nice ashram, Anand Prakash (www.anandprakashashram.com), where i stayed a week and did yoga twice a day. It was clean and comfortable with very nice people working and studying there. The food was tasty and the teachers very open and helpful, Whilst there i also managed to find a 10 day course in meditation. Vipassana Meditation, whatever that was. I had heard the course was very good but very tough. Well i booked myself in and thought very little of it thereafter. I was just enjoying my yoga and my new friends at the Ashram and a bit of chilledness and the last thing i wanted to do was worry about any difficulty regards meditation course.

Vipassana Meditation Ashram (http://www.dhamma.org/en/bycountry/eu/)
Well, i persuaded Joe an English girl (I met at the yoga ashram) on a months holiday in India to come with me to the meditation course in Dehra Dun, an hour away from Rishikesh. She said she wanted a deep course in meditation and i thought i had found just the ticket. It turns out i had. Blimey. We arrived, settled in and had our first introduction talk and a viewing of the programme. Oh My God. 10hours of meditation a day for 10 days, 24/7 silence (no speaking) and the usual No sex, drugs, alcohol, smoking, meat, reading, writing etc. Well l couldn't even speak to Joe after that point. We both just had a look of shock and horror on our faces and even that wasn't permitted by that time. Going back to my room, pre our first meditation that same evening, i just said to myself, take small steps. Just try and handle each moment of the day as it comes and not to think too far ahead. It helped a little but it was hard.

I got up at 4am the next day (same everyday) for my first 2hr session before breakfast. We were to simply focus our awareness upon our breath. The breath going in and out of our nostrils and each time my mind would wander off on a tangent, from one thought to another i would bring it back to my breath. I noticed actually that my mind usually thought of the past or the future, of pleasant experiences or not so pleasant experiences and rarely was in the NOW. I was to bring my mind back to focus on my breath. My mind didn't like this. To focus only on one single thing. My breath. It may sound simple from an intellectual perspective however doing it is something very different. (Try it at home for 10-15mins and see how you go).

We practised this task for the first three days, its all we did for 30 hours. Can you imagine. I was going insane and just wanted to leave, all the time. Thereafter we were to observe any sensations around the area of the nose, then later only the area between the bottom of the nostrils and the top part of the upper lip. The reason why were doing this was once we had the control of our mind (no more random wanderings) we would then focus the mind single mindedly on the body to feel any sensations that rose and passed away. I can hear you still asking, Why? OK, I will explain what i understand.

I have been taught that to learn how to live harmoniously you have to find the cause of disharmony. The cause(s) always lies within so this is like an exploration of ones mind and body to understand the reality of oneself. I know, you are thinking - Crystal Clear Luke. Thx.

The Technique
This meditation technique, its words and methodology have come directly from Siddhartha Gautama, AKA Buddha, the enlightened one. Buddha discovered (in 600BC) and then later taught that the cause of all human misery and suffering is created by our cravings and aversions, our likes and dislikes. When anger, hatred, delusion, fear, passion arise (often with regard to an external event), tension is created within, one starts tying knots inside. This process is continually repeated throughout our lives, thereafter one starts distributing this negativity to all they come in contact with. Misery is created from within.

The concentration of the mind is not the end goal, however by focusing the mind on the sensations of the body (itching, heat, tinglings, vibrations, pulsing, pain, tension), the sensations being the effects of external causes, I am taught to remain impartial to these sensations. By remaining completely aware, objective and equanomonus to these sensations, by not reacting (not itching or scratching) but by only observing, one notices that the sensations always rise and pass away. After much practise one is able to remain objective to all situations that take place externally. Meaning a difficult situation arises externally with someone and instead of re-acting, one centres/breaths and then with a more balanced (less emotional state) acts to the situation. So the theory is by practising the mediation daily, by living in the Now, by accepting and not reacting to or judging each moment in our lives one starts to live a more peaceful and happier life. Thereby free oneself from misery and suffering. The end goal is the purification of the mind, eradication of all mental defilement's, negatives within and thus attaining liberation from misery and suffering so that you can live peacefully, harmoniously and happily. (I really wonder how many of you this makes sense to. Please do write a comment of the blog or mail me).

I must be honest, i found the course very hard and it did not get any easier each day. Partly because i have never done any serious meditation before, i found it difficult to focus for such long periods of time (10hrs a day) and I didn't feel that connected to my mind or body either to be honest. I did feel some gross sensations but hardly any subtle sensations never mind about sweeping through the body (phase 3). I did at the end of the course speak with others who appear to have made real progress but i appreciate we are all unique individuals progressing on the path towards enlightenment and a higher consciousness at our own pace. So I don't feel disheartened. To the contrary. I was very please that I completed the full 10days and didn't give in although i thought about quiting many many times every single day. This is my first meditation course. I do plan to take some other meditation courses during my time in India and see what is out there and see what suits me.

I must say that something very strong inside me just told me this felt very right, meditation I mean, a natural thing to do in my progression and growth as a human being. I know now that my mind is very powerful, I also know that if directed by me (the self) it serves me better as opposed to my mind being the master and it leading me, which could be disastrous. I am now thinking about making meditation a part of my life. At least to see what practical effects and positive impacts it has on my life. At the experiential level to see what truth lies within through my own actual experiences with my body and mind. I realise I will have to work persistently and only through continued practise of meditation will I be successful and bare the fruits but my hope is that it will get easier as a I practise more. Time will tell.

I am now back in Rishikesh and am staying here for a few days. I met a lady that performs Reiki, i already had a treatment from her before my meditation course and have now decided to do my Level 1 in Reiki this weekend. Thereafter, I am heading north to Dharamsala where the Dalai Lama lives. I am taking a 10-day introductory course in Buddhism. More of out curiosity than anything. It will touch upon the key subjects that Buddha taught during his 40 years of teaching and also includes a daily yoga and meditation session. Of course I will tell you about both when i am done. I am not sure what i am doing after that, we shall what comes across my path.

INDONESIA, BORNEO

2009-08-14T14:14:00.042+02:00

INDONESIA - BORNEO

I had been travelling for nine months now and l slowly started to get a feeling of being a little tired of travelling. I don't know, it just happened. I still really wanted to experience the wild jungles of Borneo and Sumatra and was very keen to see some wild Orang utans, but these islands are miles away from Bali or anywhere else. Certainly an expensive flight or two. Well then i had an inspirational idea. Why not try and do some voluntary work on one of the islands at one of the sanctuary's or national parks. That way i could spend time in the forest, not travel around and give something back which i thought could be a rewarding experience. Well l acted upon the idea that same week and sent a few emails out. I thought if its meant to be someone will write back with a positive response. A couple of days later, i got a reply from one of the six emails i sent saying that they have a couple of projects on the go in Borneo and i was welcome to spend a month with them and help out. I called them, spoke with Asep the office manager, figured out the cheapest way i could get there and job done. I booked a cheap flight from KL to Kuching in Malaysia Borneo then took a 10hr bus and a 6hr ferry on to West Kalimantan in Indonesia Borneo. I was there in two days!

BORNEO, West Kalimantan

Borneo is the third largest island in the world, (FYI Sumatra is the 6th largest). Borneo has some 3,000 species of tress, 2,000 species of orchids and 1,000 species of ferns. Kalimantan province is the richest of all the Sundaic islands for plants, both in terms of total species richness and diversity. It supports the largest expanse of tropical rain forest in the Indomalayan realm. It is the main centre for the distribution of Malaysian flora and Indomalayan fauna making it a major centre for plant diversity. It has some 10,000 to 15,000 species of flowering plants in total along with, 420 species of resident birds, 222 mammals, 166 snakes, as well as 13 species of primates. In fact, Orang Utans only live on the islands of Borneo (80%) and Sumatra (20%), now where else in the world and West Kalimantan has some 8% of the worlds population equivalent to roughly 7,500 primates. Other charismatic mammals in Kalimantan include the Asian Elephant, Proboscis Monkey, Bornean Gibbon, Clouded Leopard and the Sun Bear. FYI, all these animals are listed as endangered and have been placed on the IUCN red list of threatened animals and in the last decades, the Sumatran Rhinoceros has disappeared and may now be extinct in Borneo. Why, because these animals require large home ranges to obtain their living resources. These ranges are disappearing each year at a very high and completely unsustainable rate because of our needs, or perhaps, due to the ignorant way we meet/source our needs.

Arriving off the ferry boat, Joseph from the local office picked me up and we drove to the small town of Ketapang where the office was located. I soon found out that I was going to be doing voluntary work for FFI Fanua & Flora International of the UK. One of the longest standing and respected NGO's in the field of conservation. Bonus. Get right in with the Pros that's what i thought. I met all the people from the office and very friendly and welcoming they were. The two key areas of activity that FFI in Borneo focus on is Bat research and a socio-economic programme with the local indigenous people. When in the office i slept there, it's like a large house converted into an office with a kitchen and bathroom. Other colleagues slept there too. And when in the field i slept and ate what my local colleagues did.

The rain forests here are one of the purest untouched in the world, much like the amazon in Latin America. Home to some of the oldest (400yrs old) and most valuable (both in commercial and conservation terms) trees in the world sch as the Dipterocarpaceae tree reaching some 65m high into the canopy. However there is a huge problem here in the world today. I will explain as best i can but first one must understand although Indonesia is a very big country and a country with enormous natural resources such as timber it is also a very poor country. Its easy to judge too quickly. On the one hand the national parks and non-park forested areas are too large to protect and conserve with manpower. It just costs too much and the value of the forests may not be properly understood. To make things worse, the government, both national and local are one off the most corrupt in the world so it only serves to make matters worse. What happens is as follows. First the most valuable timber is extracted illegally by the logging companies. Once these roads into the forest have been made, the smaller timber and some valuable wildlife is taken, such as primates for onwards sale. Thereafter an oil palm company will submit a request to slash and burn the now considerably less valuable forest with the objective of making an oil palm plantation. But that's not the end. Oil palms take five years to produce their first harvest however the rain forest soil is actually poor in nutrients due to its sallow ground, perhaps half a metres. All the trees roots grow out horizontally as opposed to vertically. The nutrients within the soil come mainly from the continual falling of leaves and other vegetation and animal matter that in turn decompose naturally. Without this natural process the forest floor is only nutrient rich for a max of two years. Due to the nature of the oil plantations requiring more nutrients man made chemical fertilisers are used throughout to aide the harvest. The overflow of these toxic chemicals in turn flow into the rivers and contaminate the food chain (fish etc), leading to the further increased degradation of the environment. (the pics taken form a plane show first a natural forest having been cleared the second the oil plantations in place of the forest)

Well, our driver drove us as near as he could to the outskirts of the forest then we started walking. We walked for five hours into the rain forest with our backpacks, crossing rivers and streams, climbing over and under logs. One sad sight along the way was the large piles of timber illegally extracted from the forest. We had walked for three hours deep into the jungle and i could still hear the chainsaws ferociously busy, an awful sound when i was in such pure nature. My heart just saddened.Finally we got to the forest rangers station which was to be our home for the next week. I was very fortunate, no tourists are allowed here, only conservationists and the park rangers. I shared a very basic hut (see pic) with Matt, just on the edge of the stream. The river water was so clean we used it to refill our drinking bottles each day (no stomach upsets), we cooked with it, we washed in it and when i did the little fish ate away at all the dead skin on my feet. It gave a funny tingling sensation. (I later saw in KL people pay money for this cleaning in shopping malls).

Bat Research

The reason why any organisation performs bat research within a particular forest is because the presence of many bat species (of which there are 1150 species - humans are just one single species!) living in the forest is a very good sign of the bio-diversity of the forest. Why, because bats have a very varied diet that includes insects, small birds and fruits & nuts among other foods. Many bats means many other animals to feed upon. I was to help the team with the capturing, measuring and releasing of the bats we caught. Matt & Tiga, two conservationists from the UK and Sepe from the local office were my teachers, the forest rangers being our local guides. We patrolled the immediate forest within an hours radius of the research centre (rangers station) walking along the same tracks used by the local indigenous forest people. We were looking for clear trails that high foliage on either side to lay our large Harp bat nets. Bats fly out and forage for food at dawn and dusk only, they often use the same trails made by the tribal people to get around the forest. We would set up six or seven bat nets during the day, 50m apart along our chosen trails. Then around 8pm and 7am we would go back to the nets and collect any bats caught. Place them each in individual cotton bags and bring back to the station for analysis. Their species, gender, calls, size, weight would all be meticulously recorded by the team with the aim of collating this information in to a database that will later be used for two purposes. A document is compiled with this and other information, one for a potential donor to further contribute funds to the work being done. And secondly, a second report is complied and submitted to the government in Jakarta with a request to preserve and save this particular area of rain forest due to its high biodiversity value. This is the final objective as to why all this work is done. Both progress and success is slow but this work must be done otherwise it will literally be generations before this primary forest is ever to be the same again. If ever! It was the first time this work had been carried out in West Kalimantan by any NGO and the initial research results were very positive. We caught some 10 species of bats and some 100 individual bats during our time there. Later back in the office i read the 90 page report being produced by the team and discussed the use of a Management Summary. I explained the concept and having read the full report they agreed to me going ahead and compiling a summary which i did. Once I'd completed the three pager doc the team reviewed it. It is now been used to help sell/position the work being Now its a wait and see with some additional lobbying to be done by the team to the government and donors.

One important additional point to be made is that Oil Palm is used in 100's possibly 1000's of consumer products such soap, shampoo and many many food products. Today, the large multinationals are still not that concerned with their suppliers being sustainable. Meaning, there is still little regard today as to the source of oil palm, how it has been produced. What sacrifices, legal or illegal have taken place to produce this oil. I write this because its important. I realise that one key way to get things changed in this world is through education to us the consumer and us acting/voting with our dollar. Ideally there should be a certification system within the EU and US, whereby independent conservation auditors validate the source and the suppliers. Much like one has today with financial auditors validating the finances of a company that are later inserted into the annual report. With the certification and clear labelling of sustainably sourced products, us the consumer would be fully aware and there could be some form of tax penalisation (higher price) for the products and their respective companies that continue to ignore a sustainable certification process. Or, these products might just not be allowed to be sold in our markets. That would also help send the right message to the corporation. It has to come from us though, the consumer. They won't change!

Socio-economic programme
Later in the month i went out on another field trip with another team. Their objective was to better understand the current boundaries of the forest in relation to the surrounding villages. Clearly understand their key issues to survival, their current resources of income and how we are able at the practical level to improve the quality of their lives. Traditional local communities inhabiting the area earn most of their income principally from revenue from rubber sales (50%), logging (15%), or working as employees in the oil palm plantation. The balance or ratio of how income is earned is changing however, with fewer and fewer commercial timber now available and with Oil palm plots now maturing, local people are staying where they are but the land has changed, from primary rain forest to oil palm fields stretching as far as the eye can see (from a plane window). Apart from working to generate cash income, the local Dayak communities are commonly engaged in a range of traditional activities to satisfy their daily needs such as growing rice, fruit and vegetables, collecting other non timber forest products, and catching fish in the rivers and streams and hunting pigs, deer and other wild animals. Of course there is the issue of forest encroachment but that must be taken in consideration and balance with the needs of the local rural people. We stayed in the village chiefs house in Sungai Putri, 30 km from our office in Ketapang from where we worked with the local guides to map out the boundaries of the village and its adjoining farmland. we also captured the key down issues they had, whether it be a broken dam that used to block the sea from coming inland and now threatened some of their land or whether it was a lack of knowledge or land or whatever the issue might be. In fact, separate consultation talks were held with the villagers to better understand the issues and so being able to better target financial and other resources. It was very tough work, walking in the 40C heat, walking around the villages and surrounding fields to map out with a GPS the exact lay of the land.

Carbon Credits

I must mention another key motivation why the villages are working with us aside from receiving some direct practical resource. There is one key, new aspect that i quickly learnt about which is a way to protect the forest while provide direct financial resources to these villages whilst allowing corporations to operate. It's called Carbon credits. A tract of rain forest holds millions of cubic tons of carbon in its soil. Carbon taken from the atmosphere by the trees and held in the soil. If this tract of land is slashed and burned the equivalent of this amount carbon held in the soil is realised into the atmosphere as carbon dioxide, which further exacerbates the green house effect and the amount of pollution in the atmosphere. It is one reason why Indonesia is the 3rd largest polluter in the world after the US. With guidance of the Kyoto protocol both companies and countries are having to be increasingly aware of how much they pollute (their carbon footprint) for fear of being fined. So if company X wants to set up shop in Indonesia to produce whatever, it will also produce a carbon footprint - pollution. Its inevitable however small. To avoid being fined either by the government of Jakarta or by its origin country it pays an amount of money annually to Jakarta to be allowed to pollute (its not perfect i know but hey the world isn't right now). This money is then directed annually to the villages surrounding that specific piece of forest with the agreement from the villagers of saving that particular piece of land for the carbon it holds. The scheme is starting to take off, hopefully with all stakeholders being satisfied. I don't know how long this system can or will work, it may take off and flourish. However it's definitely a step in the right direction to think more laterally to solve some of the big problems our generation has inherited in the world today and allow our children to see and experience what i have been fortunate to have experienced.

My time and work in Borneo felt so right. I stopped travelling, stayed in one place. Learnt so many new things and hopefully also gave back what i could with my knowledge hard work and spirit. I found the experience of giving so rewarding, it made me happy. I also taught English twice a day when i was in the office to a young boy working there called Ripin. Later i met his headmaster and agreed to give his the students of his school a talk on why its so important to learn English in the world today as a door to open and look for new opportunities.

I would like to personally thank all the team for their time, support and generosity, for letting me be apart of their team and their work. Thank you Asep, Sephy, Joseph, Mary, Adek, Adji, Emma, Matt, Tiga, Gustina and Ripin.

(Sorry this video was filmed horizontally)

INDONESIA, SULAWESI & GILI AIR

2009-08-14T14:14:00.041+02:00

INDONESIA

SULAWESI
I was so so excited to see Claudia again. The last time was two months ago in Thailand and during the past two months we had only had contact through sms, phone and maybe video skype, so it hadn't been easy but we were very excited to see each other. She flew into KL (Kuala Lumpor) and we stayed in a nice hotel there for a couple of nights. I managed to arrange tickets for the last night of the musical Siddhartha. What an experience. The music was very powerful and moving, the costumes full of bright exuberant colours, the lighting was so cleverly used with effects and we even had subtitles in English so we could follow the story of the young prince leaving home against his families wishes and gaining enlightenment. We only stayed a couple of nights in KL before flying to Makassar in Sulawesi and heading south along the coast to Pantai Bira but it was nice just to be together.

Pantai Bira, Sulawesi
After finally arriving at our holiday destination, a plane and a bus later, we settled into our beach bungalow which i thought was ok. To be honest i did have other higher expectations in mind but Claudia loved it. You see, Bira isn't in the Lonely Planet, i just heard about it from a local Sulawesi guide i came into contact with and he recommended it if we were looking for a secluded place. Well it literally was at the end of the world...but in a good way. l think we came across three other western couples throughout our ten days there. There were just large white expanses of beaches with extremely clear turquoise waters with odd fisherman. Claudia said she had never seen any beaches or water as beautiful as this ever. They were exquisite.

I think we were walking around on our first night looking for food when we came across this other place that also had bungalows, but but bigger bungalows with open terraces sitting high up on large stilts over the water. Well when i saw these, i thought, wow, if we could stay here, well...so i spoke to the man, discussed availability and prices, then talked to Claudia to get her feeling of it. She had a look, and also liked them very much too, even more so than where we were so we moved in the next day. Fantastic.

To be honest we didn't do an awful lot when we there. Just talked a lot, swam, sun bathed ate and slept. We just wanted to be together that's all. You know how it is when you're in love ;-). We did the odd walk, i did lots of snorkeling but i had to go far out over the beach reef due to the fisherman using cyanide in the past to catch fish. All the coral was dead near the shore, but it was better further out. On one our walks we did find this absolute paradise of a beach, swaying coconut palm trees hanging over the white sand, blue water and just no one there. No one on the beaches except the two us. Amazing. Even i haven't experienced that much on my journey! I think you'll agree the pictures do do it justice. Simply pure and beautiful.

Our time ended, as is inevitable but it was wonderful. We both thought it was one of the best holidays we ever had. Coming back to KL we spent a couple of days there, Claudia did some shopping and then i took her to the airport, BUT, at the same time my sister Abbie was coming to visit me. In fact Abbie landed a couple hours before Claudia left so they met each other and i wasn't alone but now to be with my favourite and only big sister. How lucky I was!

Gili Air, nr. Lombok, Indonesia (with my sister!)
Abbie and l hadn't see each other for a year. Although we do live in different countries, she in Spain and me in Belgium, we always see each other five or six times a year for 4-5days at a time to spend some quality time with each other. Well a year had passed, with only random phone calls or sms so we had a lot to catch up on. I was so happy and grateful she came out to see me.

Another flight and bus later we were on Gili Air. The Gili islands comprise of three islands, Gili Trawangen, the party island, Gili Meno, which is extremely quiet and Gili Air which has a perfect balance of a few bars and restaurants with people and yet the atmosphere and pace is very chilled. I knew Abbie would like it. Having landed we got some food and then checked out a few places to stay. The island is only 1km by 2km so its pretty easy to get about on a horse and cart. We decided to stay at the Gili Air hotel which was very nice, however after being there a night or two Abbie felt it wasn't nice enough or clean enough or whatever, ...so we moved.

We stayed at these lovely modern clean cottages at Manta Dive where Abbie decided she would try and do her PADI course. I must say, based on her fear of depths of water I was a little surprised but very supportive of her doing it. We first went out together and did some snorkeling just to show Abbie the beautifully coloured fish and coral and to show her that the fish don't bite, in fact they are more scared of us than we should be of them. It worked. After a couple days of snorkeling she no longer held my hand and was out there beside me snorkeling around and exploring pointing the special fish out to me. Magic.

Abbie started her PADI course a couple of days later and i went out with her on the boat and snorkeled above her just to be there for her. You must understand, when one faces any particular, deep routed fear, its a very daunting, testing time. It's not easy as l'm sure you'll appreciate. She was very brave and took baby steps each day. Learning the theory and then applying it in the water with practise. To begin with progress was slow but there was progress each day and we'd talk about it in the evening, the skills, the technique, the fears being faced etc. She was doing well. While at Manata Dives we realised our weeks booking was up and they couldn't prolong our stay due to another booking, but it wasn't a problem, we had both spotted another lovely place to stay. Another dive shop in fact called the Blue Marlin dive centre. A very welcoming and social dive centre in Gili Air. We moved in there for our last week and in fact loved the place. Definitely worth staying at. Again we had a lovely clean modern cottage that we shared and Abbie continued her PADI course. Each day practising her skills in the water and then going out with the dive master to apply what she had learnt. I also came out with her either snorkeling or as on two occasions i dived with her which was a great experience. Diving together in the water, looking at all the coral and fish some 12metres underwater. It was a first for us both together in this wonderful environment. Abbie was successful in gaining her Scuba Padi dive certification which allows her to dive up to 12meters in depth. The teachers we really supportive and Abbie did so well.

Aside from Abbie doing her PADI we just chilled out. We did venture out and visit the other two islands for a day each, which served to show us on the one hand that we had picked the best island that was right for us but it was nice to visit and did enjoy the two islands. We mainly just spent time talking, sunbathing, swimming, eating and sleeping and enjoying some amazing sun sets. It was her first proper holiday in four years, in fact since we went to Sardinia together so chilling out and recharging the batteries was the top priority. I hope and think we were successful. It was very good for me too. I too needed a break from my travels (i know, your thinking oh poor old Luke, what a hard life he has now) especially before going to India so i loved to just chill and do very little.

Shortly thereafter we flew back to KL where we spent a night and then Abbie was off the next day back to the UK and i was busy trying to arrange my visa and flight to India. I was successful and left a few days later, but before buying a small notebook laptop from where i can, in a relaxed way write to you all and share with you in a little more detail my thoughts and feelings about my experiences.

I've tried to add some nice pics so you can get a feel for the island and where we stayed. I would definitely recommend Gili Air as a holiday destination to anyone interested. It has a really nice vibe.

Well its off to India now. I do feel a little anxious. I have heard you either love India or hate it. It is 'sensory overload' I understand. Well we shall see but one thing is for sure, I will not be racing to visit places. The last 12 months have been amazing but travelling for such a period of time can take its toll and with India i have a different agenda. India for me is about my spiritual journey and growth, to learn new things, to possible feel new things within, so again baby steps, we shall see what comes across my path - 'Inshaallah'.

INDONESIA - JAVA & BALI

2009-08-14T14:13:00.010+02:00

INDONESIA - JAVA & BALI

Indonesia is just HUGE! With a predominantly Muslim population of 235million people its as big if not bigger both geographically and populous wise then all the rest of South East Asia put together comprising of some 15,000 islands. I flew into Jakarta from Singapore and stayed only one night. There really didn't seem much worth visiting in the capital so i headed south through Bogor and Bandung and on to the surf coast of Pelabuhan Ratu, finally stopping at the surf beach destination of Pangandaran where i stayed one week and just surfed. surfed and surfed!

Pangandaran

I hadn't surfed since New Zealand, some 3-4 months ago so i was dying to get in the water. I rented a board for a week and just surfed, or tried to surf my ass off. There were some big waves but luckily breaking on to a sandy bottom as opposed to a coral or rock bottom. There was a huge expanse of beach front with many breaks so over crowding wasn't a problem and anyway the local surfers were friendly. I also met some very cool local guys at the surf shop and a group of ex-pats working as teachers in Jakarta for a year. We all had a good laugh together and I ended up doing a day trip on a motor bike with them and a local guide to a sea turtle sanctuary, a blue lagoon, a wooden puppet master and waterfall. A Great day out.

After my weeks fantastic surfing break I went with a friend that i met there, Ed from the UK, and made the long journey to Volcano Bromo via Jogjakarta. To be honest neither of us liked Jogjakarta much, we visited the unimpressive royal palace. However after much walking and searching along the super busy streets we did find what we were looking for, the 'government shop for Batik art'. A very good find indeed. Original Batik art, produced by local artists and sold at affordable prices. Well its art, of course I had to buy some and I did. Lets just hope it gets home OK in the Indonesian post. We only spent a few days in Jogjakarta however while we were there we definitely planned to visit the famous Borobudur temple.

Borobudur

Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple in the world, listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. It has six square platforms topped by three circular platforms and is decorated with lots of statues and panels. There's a main dome, located at the center of the top platform, surrounded by some 72 Buddha statues seated inside stupas. The monument is both a shrine to the Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimages. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian Government and UNESCO. It is still used for pilgrimage once a year by Buddhists in Indonesia and is Indonesia's single most visited tourist site.

Thereafter we then moved on to Bromo. A long bus ride where I stared death literally in the face several times. I was sitting in the very front of the bus (not my choice, promise) and sometimes you would have three cars going one way and two the other all on a single lane road where drivers just used the verge. Madness. Anyway we arrived at our destination luckily in one piece late that night. Accommodation was OK-ish but we were at this place for the next mornings sunrise. That was the big deal. The lookout point. We ate and slept and then were up at 3.30am, left by 4am and arrived at our destination at 5am in time for the sunrise.

Bromo, The Setting.

I stood a top this large look out point (not alone of course- tourist ville). I had a view at least of 260° degrees at least. To the left side this is where the sun finally rose. Initially i could see nothing, just pitch black, but that just adds to the magic of the moment. Slowly, minute by minute literally i could begin to pick out some landscape.

The sun took at least 30-45minutes to rise. Each moment i could piece a little more of the enormity of what i was seeing. I had no idea of the view or of what to expect. I just knew i should not miss this. Well to my left, the direction from where the sun began to rise I could just start to make out several cones, volcano cones, spreading for miles across miles and miles valleys and mountain ranges. Ahead of me I began to see that some volcanoes were spitting out smoke, little white puffs in the distance. Others were lying dormant but still majestic in their in size and beauty. To the right of my view there was an enormous open volcano crater, a bit like a huge crater lake without the lake, with clouds drifting slowly over it. I was just in ore of the view. Speechless. I just beheld the awesome beauty of the view. I have never in all my life seen anything like this. Such a vast clear and visibly landscape slowly coming into focus minute by minute. I will remember this sunrise to my dying day. It was and is the most amazing sunrise landscape I have ever been fortunate enough to behold.

I do realise my words offer absolutely no justice to the spectacular site I witnessed, however maybe my pictures and video will.

Ed and I walked up Bromo volcano later that morning, which was fine, but I've been up a few volcanoes now. The volcano was very much a live and spitting out plumes of toxic smoke and gases however after having just witnessed the most amazing sunrise landscape I realise nothing could top that.

BALI

After another long bus ride to the far most north eastern point of Java I took the ferry boat to the island of Bali. Having heard so many things about Bali (e.g. the book eat,prey,love) i was excited about this next part of my travel. The first couple of nights i stayed in a small town called Lovina on the north of Bali which was nice enough. One god thing, i managed to find what they call a 'rice hut' within the grounds of a swanky five star hotel so i chilled there by the pool and just enjoyed. Lovina is famed for the large groups of dolphins that fish for food each morning at sunrise. I said to myself 'when in Rome, why not. Initially all was fine. Me and couple of people ventured out on a small boat into the ocean with the sun rising behind us. Beautiful. However after 30mins of sailing i started to see a few other boats, then more boats. All for the same reason. To see these dolphins. I counted 30 other boats in total out there with us and one boat spotted a family of dolphins, they all started chasing after the dolphins. I couldn't believe it. I guess i just didn't know what to expect. But after while the boats with their tourists just chased after any dolphins that raised their heads form the water. I didn't feel good, i didn't like it and just wanted to go back. It gets harder and harder to find sacred things or moments with us all on this small planet. Anyway. Not to be repeated.

Tumbalen dive site.

I had read about the most famous dive site in Bali, Tumbalen, so i headed further round the coast and stayed at a nice place call ed Ahmed on the east coast just next to Tumbalen. During the second world war the Japanese bombed a the US Cargo ship Liberty, a ship some 150meters in length. The US tried to bring it to shore and were successful but some years later a huge earthquake shunted the ship back into the sea. The ship has resided at the same spot in the water, between 12 and 30 metres of depth, for the past 40+ years. Enough time for the creatures of the deep to make it there home! I managed to find a local outfit to take me diving. I just tried to have no expectations. Not an easy task :-). As luck would have it we got there a little late, 8am and the first lot of divers had finished so when we got into the water were almost alone, just one or two other divers. Each time i submerge i have to go slowly due to my ears and not being able to equalise that easily. The down side being i use a lot of air. So i finally got to 12m depth and was swimming happily along, i slowly started to make out the faint outline of the shipwreck. Getting closer and closer i felt there was a moment coming. That moment was this. I was swimming (with my dive master of course next to me) nearer and nearer to the front nose of the ship and then i had a thought. I just felt that round the other side of this nose, around this corner a whole myriad of life forms would be seen. WOW! Was i right. I looked over the bow of the shipwreck and saw everything, huge red coloured fan coral a metre in diameter, small fish, seahorses, schools of jack fish swarming high above my head. I followed my dive master deeper and deeper along the side of the ship. It had been broken into two parts but still somewhat attached. There was coral all over the boat, every single bit of steel was covered. As we came round the stern of the boat and up the other side i turned to my left, inwards facing the boat and saw the giant resident Barracuda that lives there. Just minding his own business. At least 1..5m in length, its body so big, bigger that a full set of golf clubs (sorry for the poor visionary)! We then swam up the side and through archways and doors. All such new experiences. While we were swimming up i had a look at my air gauge. To my surprise it read 0. Meaning no air left. Out of air. Shit! Well i grabbed my dive master showed him my gauge, he pulled my air piece out and gave me his secondary air piece. All this at 30m depth. Well then we swam together in tandem slowly back to the surface which took 15mins. Another experience. It was a valuable lesson. I realise now that i use a lot of air to get down, due to my ears and the compression, so i need to be more aware of my air gauge in future! Aside the shipwreck dive was simply amazing. I spent just under an hour swimming all round the wreck, with just the two of us more or less in the water enjoying the experience. How fortunate. I would definitely do it again and if anyone goes to Bali, they must dive the US Cargo shipwreck on the east coast in Tumbalen. Sorry no pics of this! Just my memories ;-).

I headed further south after that and rented a motorbike for a few days and just travlled around the island of Bali. Visiting gue rice padi terraces, temples built out in the ocean and other things Balinese. I have added a few random photos of Bali to give you a feel for it.

SINGAPORE

2009-07-07T06:40:00.015+02:00

SINGAPORE

I was so lucky, again using intentional thought i managed to get a bed where there wasn't one on the sleeper train from KL to Singers. A very smooth journey, leaving one modern city and entering another very super high tech city. In fact Singapore the country is actually Singapore the city. Same Same. There is no difference in geography or size. That is how small Singapore is, but size takes nothing a way from its economic clout as a very important financial business and trading hub in South East Asia. In fact as far as places go to work in Asian capitals, Singapore offers well paid jobs, 10% income tax and a great location for exploring the rest of Asia and for living a very comfortable if not a tad humid. It reminds me of a greener, more advanced version of Dubai where ex-pats come to work, make some money and leave. Slightly transient, but a bit like Brussels in that respect, but without the fraudulently high taxes we pay. I could work there if the opportunity arose and fantastic food and shopping for all.

I visited the most fascinating museum in Singapore, the Contemporary Asian Arts Museum which gave an in-depth insight to not only the art but the culture and religions of Asia. A huge colonial building with many large rooms and several floors depicting the different religions such as Hindu, Islam and Buddhism. I learnt a lot about their beliefs, cultures, gods and of course their art and culture. I took some pictures (albeit illegally) of some of the beautiful sculptures and artifacts. i have added a couple of pictures from both the Hindu and Buddhist religions. I hope you like them.

I also visited the Singapore zoo (i was about to write prison ooops). I have mixed feelings about zoos as may some of you. On the one hand we are trying to conserve a species or animal on the verge of extinction, of which there are now so many. So many in fact that it's unprecedented in humans history on earth (aside from ice ages). When I looked closely at the animals I could tell some were very sad, mentally, emotionally and possibly physically. But what to do. I did see these amazing White Tigers of which i read there are only a few hundred left in the wild. They lay there on their rocks looking dormant and lethargic, but such magnificent creatures. The children loved it, helping feed some of the animals at feeding time. A great experience for them.

I met up with some good old friends such as Brian, Osman and Chloe which was fun. I did find Singapore expensive though, i guess you just have to know where to drink or eat but if you go to the fun and busy central Circle quay area be prepared to spend some money. Oh and don't come on a travellers budget!

Visiting Singapore on my way to Indonesia was always going to be a whistle stop tour but i am glad i visited the city and would definitely go back again, both for work opportunities, to see my friends and do some serious shopping at the many AC malls. Well its off to Indonesia now of which i am really excited about.

Well its off to Indonesia now of which i am really excited about.

MALAYSIA

2009-07-04T15:28:00.031+02:00

MALAYSIA

I always find it very exciting entering a new country because you just don't know. All is knew. Not knowing what to expect, just keep an open mind, low expectations and living in the now.

Well, rightly or wrongly i skipped the Perhentian islands of the Northern Malaysian east and west coast and headed directly to the mountains, to the Cameron highlands in the middle of the country. I do like to mix it up a bit but i think you know that by now ;-).

Anyway, my first experience of Malaysia and its people was just over the border from Thailand, i was a little lost, there were these three old men sitting on the pavement smoking cigarettes and having a discussion. I thought should I or shouldn't I, I felt it was ok so I asked the guys for directions to the train station. Well they told me in perfect English where i needed to go, asked where i was from, how long had i been in Malaysia and wished me a pleasant onward journey. Well my first impression, i will say it has remained that way, i found the Malay people to be very friendly and calm. Good first impression. I stopped overnight in Ipoh and then headed into the highlands.

The Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands is famous for its tree growing estates, one of the biggest being the BOH tea estate still run by the Scottish family who set it up over a 100 years ago. Malaysia being an ex-British colony does produce some excellent tea which i found out to my delight. First decent cuppa in yonks.

Aside, i have to say i wasn't too impressed with the highlands, basically because the tea estates were more like manufacturing plants with tourists stalls at the end. However I did find an unexpected jewel on my travels in the highlands. The Rafflesia flower. The largest flowering plant in the world, previously only seen by me on life on Earth with David Attenborough.

The hunt for The Rafflesia

When I go to my hostel, settled in etc, i had a look round and had chat with the manager. Apparently the following day was going to be the first of five days visiting a Rafflesia flower that had been spotted by the local tribal men in the nearby rain forest. Day one is apparently the best day due to the flower being in full bloom, the remaining four days it dies a little each day. Well i just couldn't miss such a rare opportunity as this so i booked myself on it immediately.

The Rafflesia is a parasitic flowering plant that lives off a vine, the largest flowering plant in the world no less and only found in Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines. The plant doesn't actually have any roots, stems or leaves, all you can see outside the host vine is five huge petals, each as big as my arm. Actually it can grow up to one metre in diameter and weigh 10 kilos! It grows very sporadically and i later learnt that in the 500square hectares of rain forest they had only found one at a time in bloom.

We had a excellent local guide, Francis (see pic above, Francis with us), who was so enthusiastic about the flower and so knowledgeable about the rain forest and its fauna and flora that it was just a joy to trek with him through the rain forest in search of this beautiful gem. Having a great guide i have found can make all the difference between a ok/good day and an excellent. I was fortunate. After having trekked a couple of hours over streams and through dense forest he spotted it. We all stopped and just beheld the moment, in awe to be honest. It was so huge! and it didn't smell, normally they stink of dead meat, the vile smell attracts insects that transport its pollen.

Of course you couldn't touch it, why would you, we just sat next to it and admired it while Francis talked in more detail about the flower. I have taken some photos and good video (see below). i hope you like them. I was so lucky and this has been a definite highlight of my trip in Malaysia. On the way back we came across this waterfall and pool so i couldn't help my self, i had to have a dip as you do...

A great day out! A couple of days later i headed on towards the Taman Negara rain forest.

Taman Negara Rain forest

The Tama Negara national park in Malaysia is home to the oldest rain forest in the world, some 130 million years old, it wasn't affected by the last ice ages. Well for my south east Asia trip, this was a must experience highlight. I know rhinos, tigers and elephants live among other animals and birds in this forest although i was under no illusion of seeing anything. One just doesn't these days. Too few animals, too many humans and well, the animals are all shit scared of us and rightly so. Either way i wanted to trek in this dipterocrap rain forest and see the tall buttressed Tulug trees (see me next to one), third tallest in SE Asia growing up to 65m high. (see my pic). See the many wild orchids and ferns growing along with all the butterflies and insects. I was not looking forward to the leaches though!

Me and a mate i met in the highlands, Danny boy from the US headed south to Taman Negara and were up for doing a three day two night trek, however when we got there we soon realised prices were high for just the two of us. We did finally find another two but they wouldn't afford the much more reasonable price per person for four. After much deliberation it was decided by the others we would go on our own into the rain forest without a guide. I didn't like this idea one bit. Apparently the first part was easy, take a boat up stream for an hour then follow a path for another hour to get our hut. Well, we were taken in a boat up stream through the forest to the drop off point, got all our gear, water bottles, food etc together and started trekking.

In fact to be fair we did get to our destination ok that first night. A wooden hut built on concrete stilts in the forest. Used as a look out point for animals. Bit of a joke though, no animal would go there in their right mind. All the lights and noises. Anyway we nestled into our wooden bunk beds, ate crackers and canned food and slept.

The next morning was the true test. We planned to walk to a cave where we would sleep that night, some 5-6hrs away, if you knew where you were going. We started off a little late, 11am, the leaches were incredible, just everywhere. They got through my socks and start sucking my blood. Sometimes i found them so late that they actually fell off when i flicked because they were so bloated, full of my blood! The forest itself was extremely beautiful, partly primary but mainly secondary forest. No big animal sitings but lots of insects, birds, some magnificent trees. We had only been gone an hour following a path when we first realised were lost. We had a crap map and my compass. The path just stopped. The undergrowth just took over. That's why you have guides i was thinking to myself. After standing and talking, looking around at the dense jungle, the group finally realised that this was incredibly stupid and dangerous. I said we should turn back and try and make our way to base camp while we still had a fresh idea of where to go. Sleeping here overnight just wasn't an option i said. One minute the compass said north, the next south and yet we thought we were gong in the same direction. Well i have trekked in the Amazon, but only with a guide. Its just what you do. Finally fear started setting in and the group agreed we should head back. We did finally manage to get back safely to the hut (see pic below), but this night we were not alone, it was a full house with some 8 other trekkers.

They had a guide! I chatted with them and heard their stories about walking from the cave and sleeping the night there. Sounded exciting. I can't hide the fact that i was somewhat disappointed we didn't get a guide, i just felt we didn't get the most out of the experience and certainly learnt far less about our environment. I knew all this before we set off, but what to do?

I ended up only spending two weeks in Malaysia but before heading further south to Singapore i did spend a couple of days in KL.

Kuala Lumpor

Kuala Lumpor has quite a mixed origin of population, bit like Malaysia really. Of the 23million in Malaysia, 60% are Malay with as many as 25% being Chinese and some 8% being Indian. The rest are other nationalities, but you do see many Indians and Chinese in KL. Malaysia along with Singapore are the two most economically advanced countries in South East Asia and the Malays English, thanks to British colonisation at the end of the 18th Century is very good.

Anyway, i did bare the 35C, 90%+ humidity and took some walks around the city. I must say i saw some splendid Islamic architecture (Malays being mainly Muslim not Christian), amazing arches and domes with beautiful mosaic tiled floors in the mosques. I visited the national Islamic art gallery and the national mosque of Malaysia and the picture at the bottom is of the ceiling within the art gallery. How beautiful!

A voluntary guide showed me round the national mosque of Malaysia and towards the end of the tour we started having a conversation about God, Islam etc, as you do...well this other gentleman joined our conversation. This other gentleman, a knowledgeable scholar i found out, ended up spending over an hour with me in the mosque explaining Islam, their ways, beliefs and culture. He drew a matrix diagram to help explain to me and answering my further questions. I found it super interesting. A kind man to take his time and explain all this to me.

From my experience here in Malaysia i have found the Muslim people to be very calm, friendly and patient. A far cry from what is propagated by the western media. If one actually took the time to see and understand Islam and their beliefs one would realise it is a peaceful harmonious religion in what it teachers. Its an important part of travelling around this world for me, to learn more about the other religions, cultures and their peoples. Although one might like to think we are all cultural islands, deep in the core within all of us we are all the same. Just simple people who want to live happy, harmonious, healthy and peaceful lives, but we have lost are way, so this doesn't happen anymore. Its very sad, BUT we are working on it....

THAILAND

2009-07-04T09:13:00.017+02:00

THAILAND
All i knew was that i had a plane ticket out of Ho Chi Min to Bangkok (thank god) and that i needed a break i just wanted to chill out for a week, recharge and do nothing before heading south. That's also the beauty about travelling and the mindset one develops, to live in the NOW, go with the flow and just see what happens ;-).

So, i am on a plane, thinking, ok, l land at 7pm in Bangkok, l don't want to stay the night there, what to do? As i was pondering this thought l heard a conversation going on in English from the seats behind me. After a short while, when there was a pause i turned and spoke to them. It turns out that the chap talking to the American couple was a Thai tour guide! So i started chatting with them. It turns out that in Spring, which is when i was here, i should head to the East coast and not the West, due to the clarity of the water. Cool i thought, very good to know and what about the different islands l asked. He told me about them and l narrowed my choice down to two, Koh Tao and Koh Phangan. Kho Tao being a divers mecca, Koh Phangan being aside from the Full Moon party in the south but he said it is extremely chilled in the North. Well, i didn't think about it, I just took his word for it and decided on Koh Phangan. When l landed l found there was a bus to the central train station in Bangkok which i took with a hope of finding a spot on a sleeper train to head south. Well of course when i got there it was full (days in advance it seems), but using the power of 'intentional thought' and being persistent but polite, well it worked and i managed to get a seat on the sleeper train. Not my best nights sleep but early the next morning i was on a boat heading to Koh Phangan. By Lunch time i was settled into a bungalow on a very quiet and beautiful palm fringed beach with turquoise blue. How cool is that!

Mae Haad Rin, Koh Phangan

I didn't take the first place i found but the second, a simple wooden bungalow by the white sandy beach. The house coral reef was one of the best i have seen on my trip so far, hardly damaged at all so i managed to get some decent snorkeling in and even did a refresher scuba dive since doing my PADI last August in Honduras. Fantastic.

After having chilled for a few days just sun bathing and having massages i did do a little exploring of the island on a motorbike which was a lot of fun as always, the freedom of the road and then the night of the Full Moon Party came. Well i said to myself, if i go, it will be early just to have a look (i had been 3 years before). Well the group of people i was with were still drinking until 2am and then wanted to go in convoy, eight motorbikes, heading 45mins south to the party. Well at this point i decided No, it was too risky, accidents, police, no helmets etc so i stayed. I know, you are all in shock, how funny. Trust me, at the time it was the right decision.

During my time here i did make some very good friends here, sometimes hanging out at the local Rolling Stoned Bar. I also met a very special person called Claudia from Germany. We spent time together talking and getting to know each other, we visited a local Thai music festival and tested the local Singh beer. One morning we woke up very early and watched a beautiful sunrise together on the beach. The sun just rising over the back of the mountains in the distance. It was so peaceful and romantic. A very special moment for me and for us.(The photo below is the view from Claudia's/our bungalow onto the beach and sea. Simply gorgeous).

It was really hard to leave everyone but i guess it was just time. Claudia and the gang were going back home so i decided I would head on south into Malaysia. I was sad to leave...

Its funny how a conversation with a stranger on a plane can lead one to certain places or circumstances. Some people call it fate...(Claudia and I below)

I loved my break from travelling in Thailand, it did me the world of good to switch off after the intensity of Vietnam and now i feel a lot better about continuing my travels, feeling fully recharged again. Happy Chappy.

VIETNAM

2009-05-15T15:10:00.024+02:00

VIETNAM

Hanoi
I had mixed thoughts and expectations before arriving in Vietnam, on the one hand i thought it had only recently opened up to tourism in the 90's and on the other, i knew it could be a large country with diverse landscapes and cultures, but BUSY. Well having left very chilled out Laos, I arrived in Hanoi, the capital and was whacked over the head with a baseball bat. Uber Busy! Loads of people, circa 5million inhabitants with about 3million scooters and no helmets for kids (the law). Rammed, i would say.
As i was traveling alone, met a guy on the way, Andrew from Canada so we went to Hanoi Backpackers together. Well, I wouldn't be alone for too much longer, it was easy to meet people here. Again rammed, with about 40-50 travelers!

Andy and I visited some historic places of interest like the Ho Chi Min museum and walked around the capital, there's a pic of Andy trying to buy some local food. We soaked up the vibes on the smaller streets, passing traditional markets with their wonderful colors and fragrances. (well most smells were nice :-).

However, I had heard of the infamous snake farm from other travelers and noticed the hostel had a tour the next day so we decided to sign up and see what the crak was. Well, it was an experience to say the least, not sure I'd repeat. (the pictures and videos will do it justice when i get hem uploaded but they are not for the fain hearted!).

The Snake Farm
We arrived at this farm, wooden buildings built on thin stilts above water and immediately one of the guys working there took out this Cobra from a bag to show us. It looked deadly. It was, very. The man had trouble keeping it under control, everyone stood well back while the Cobra kept trying to bite the man.
The farm actually breeds snakes for crazy people to eat their meat and worse still drink their blood and bile, as we were about to do. To be honest its a pretty gruesome experience watching them butchering the snakes with a knife to the neck for our sake. The man slits the snakes throat open, pours the blood out into a glass, rips out the heart and then empties the bile into another glass. I know guys its terrible, but i didn't know this before i went, ok.

The session, and it does turn into a session, begins with everyone necking a shot of snake blood, me included. Just gross. (see video). I reach as usual, haha. Come on that's gonna happen, lucky i didn't chunder! We then all sat down and chowed down into the various snake meat dishes followed far too often with a shot of the local crazy homemade brew. We all had an unusual in not unforgettable experience that afternoon, I made a load of new friends and got home in not too bad a shape. ...did I say, Hanoi is a bit full on. Well it doesn't get any better!

Halong Bay

There was a big trip organised by the hostel with about 30 too 40 people leaving for the famously beautiful Halong bay for a 3 day trip, well Halong Bay was certainly a very special landscape that i had read a lot about and wanted to experience (but just maybe with 2-3 friends). So here goes...

The mob get taken down in a coach to our big boat where we would eventually eat, drink, party and sleep for the next few days. A great mix of travellers from all over, US, Canada, Europe etc...

Halong Bay is a UNESCO Heritage listed and wants to be the eight natural wonder of the world. It is a beautiful bay made up of some 1600 islands and islets, forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars coming out of the sea all around us. The trip out into the bay was spectacular however the weather wasn't that great but i still you can a appreciate the awesome beauty of the scenery. I have added a link here so you can get a better feel of it http://www.halongbay-vietnam.com/photos/index.htm#top2

On our first afternoon the captain moored the boat and we did some kayaking through the islands and some swimming. That evening we had diner and brought out the booze. The party got started. I found a music system on the boat got that pumping and so we danced the night away and slept very well in our clean and comfortable wooden cabins.

The next morning we headed for a larger island and upon arrival did a bit of a trek to the summit in the backing heat, not a great idea when you are hungover, but still, beautiful views. We spent the afternoon chilling on a local beach playing beach volleyball and had another session before crashing in our hotel rooms that night. I didn't realise it was going to be carnage but i guess if you go with a big group from a hostel, what do you expect. Everyone had a good time, but by now i was looking forward to escaping Hanoi and the mob and heading for mountains in the north of Vietnam, get some fresh air and clear the mind. I did so.

I managed to book a really nice sleeper train from Hanoi up to Sapa, a mountain village not far from the border with China. I like sleeping on sleeper trains, i think its the sound and movement. The sleeper buses in Vietnam are an absolute nightmare designed for short people. Anyway Andy and i headed north and joined by a fellow traveller.

SAPA
The small mountain village of Sapa is set among a beautiful picturesque landscape with lots of coffee plantations grown on rice like terraces on hillsides interspersed with little village communities nestled in to the hills. The ethnic Hmong people live here and as we found out they were very friendly.

On our first day the three of us were just walking around the small village streets when a couple of local mums and their daughters starting tagging along and talking to us. The mum's didn't speak much English but the little girls, well their English was impressive. Anyway we ended up going for a long walk over hills, across streams to their village where we stayed. We ate with them and talked as best we could with them. Of course we bought some little bits, scarfs etc, but we would have done that in a shop or through this personal experience. An experience that showed me more about how the local ethnic people live their lives, earn their keep and go about their daily chores. It was most unexpected and i am so glad we didn't go with some organised tour. It was a memorable first day for all of us.

We ended up staying here for a few days, one while walking we came across this waterfall where locals were swimming and playing, so we joined them in the fun and games ;-).

We also rented motorbikes one day and explored the surrounding countryside, both on road and off road! (Andy and i Chowing down somewhere on route)

All in all I found Sapa to be a refreshingly different place from what i had experienced in Vietnam so far. More real and true to life. Ok, sometimes a little touristy but that's everywhere almost. It was certainly a lovely break from the madness of Hanoi. Clean fresh air, magnificent countryside and friendly indigenous people. I had mixed feelings about moving on, i could have stayed here longer...oh well...

From Sapa i headed south to Hoi An which i loved but some reason don't have any pictures of. Hoi An has a very European feel to it, basically due to the French influence. You can by pastries, European dishes, beautiful arts and crafts, oh and, they are specialists in custom made clothing. Anything you want from suits and shirts to shorts and dresses. I did end up getting a suit made and some shirts and shorts. It would have been rude not too, good quality and cheap. Hoi An is definitely worth a visit.

After Hoi An i visited the seaside resort of Nam Trang but i didn't really rate it that much, not really Vietnamese. Busy, featureless big buildings, bars and restaurants. Nice enough beach, but I was getting itchy feet again to experience the real Vietnam so i researched hiring a motorbike for a few days and heading inland to the mountains. Well i got everything organised including a rough itinerary from a local guide of what route to take. I asked a fellow traveller, Dave from Ireland if he wanted to go, he said yes. So, Game On! We left the next day. Spontaneity, the beauty of being a traveller.

The Motorbike Trip into the Vietnamese Central Mountain range

I had a very rough outline of a map scribbled on a paper that might guide us for the next four/five days, we ended up calling it the bible because without it we would have been total lost, as it was we got lost anyway. It took us over an hour just to leave Nam Trang, there are no bloody sign posts!

On the first day we headed straight into the lush green mountains of the Cordial Mountain range that lies in the middle of Vietnam and heads all the way south to Ho Chi Min. Sadly some parts were deforested but others were still virgin forest. We passed through many beautiful coffee plantations, mountain lakes and villages. We often stopped for what we called a 'sharpener'. Water drained through grounded coffee metal filter into a small glass (espresso like), add sugar to to taste and then pour into larger class filled with ice. Absolutely delicious. It sorted any fatigue write out. You can see Dave and I are happy from the pic below. Often we would end up sitting a chatting with the locals, one day a family invited us into their house, their daughter spoke broken English and we would chat for while, telling each other about our different worlds. This for me is what part of travelling is about. Getting away from the tourists and clouds and being with and chatting with the locals.

We got lost many times each day, i said the map wasn't great and on all nights we ended up at our destination well after dark relying often on the kindness of strangers to point us in the right direction. To be continued...

Ho Chi Min City (Saigon)

Ho Chi Min Tunnels

(to be written)

LAOS

2009-02-18T23:51:00.042+01:00

LAOS

Vang Viene Tubing

I arrived in Ventiene the Capital and headed for the infamous tubing at Vang Viene. I arrived quite late at night to my guest house but met up with some travellers the next day who were up for going tubing. You see, its not so much the tubing itself, the river flows quite slowly. Its the big swings and slides, the music, the bars the ambiance that makes tubing in Vang Viene an unmissable and special experience. And it also helped me once again to get over my fear of heights. The swings seemed like they were some 30m in the air. I added a couple of videos of the swing and the parties. All just some good fun Mum, don't worry! (see the videos below).

Laung Prabang

From the madness of Vang Viene i visited the Unesco World Heritage town of Laung Prabang. A small town with its temples, markets and the mighty Mekong running beside it. Personally i am not sure why its Unesco rated, i read the french put together a team and wrote a massive file to the UN to get the town registered. Ego i suspect. Whatever, it was a nice town. I stayed a couple of days visiting the temples, museums, watched a Laos ballet performance and strolled through the night market and visited the local Kang Si waterfall. Thereafter i took a river boat up north through Laos for one day, heading towards the river towns of Nong Koi and Mong Ngoi. Again a complete change of pace.

The pics below are of the sunset upon the Mekong at Laung Prabang, the national Museum and Buddha.

Nong Koi and Mong Ngoi

Nong Koi is a quiet river town with some trekking and kayaking activities. I stayed here two nights, for me it was a stop before going onto Mong Ngoi, however i did meet some very nice travellers here and we all went one hour further north to Mong Ngoi. Mong Ngoi has no roads, only forest and river access. There is one street that is the centre of life of the village. The river is the life and source of the people, so on that note any planned UN Development bank Dam projects might not be that welcome.

I did some trekking to local tribe villages and local waterfalls through rice padi fields. I went kayaking with the boys one morning and spent a couple of sunny afternoons by the river. Just relaxed and recharged really. Apart from one night when we stumbled across a local girls leaving party so of course we had to join in. Otherwise quite a chilled time amongst nature.

Lang Nam Tha

I was sorry to leave Mong Ngoi but i guess it was time to move on. I finally decided to visit Lang Nam Tha, apparently famous for its hill tribes and trekking in the national park. I met a very cool guy on the bus, Aidan and we travelled together for a week around Long Nam Tha. One day we hired motorbikes and were just exploring when we came across this local Laos birthday party. We we had a look and they invited us in. Lets just say we were lucky to enjoy such a local authentic gathering as you will see from the video below although the birthday boy was gay and fancied Aidan, asking him to kiss him on the dance floor! (sorry mate:-). We had such a laugh! Priceless.

Aidan and i also went for a another bike ride with some fellow travellers to explore what trekking opportunities there were. At one point of the day i went into China, illegally of course. We were right by the border on the bikes in Northern Laos and i just thought i would have a look. Needless to say the guards weren't impressed and when they started blowing their whistles, I decided to drive back out of China into Laos.

Anyway we did finally find a trek to do in the mountains. The trek was fine but i guess we all had other expectations, like meeting local tribal people, learning some local crafts etc. As i said we had a nice trek anyway and a good group of people.

I loved my time in Laos very much. I was sad to leave but you know, onwards and upwards. So far it has been my favourite country in South East Asia. I found the people to be genuine, open and warm and not all about getting the money. The pace of life is slow, simple and contented. Just calm and happy. Lets hope it may stay that way for a long time into the future.

CAMBODIA

2009-02-18T23:51:00.035+01:00

Cambodia

OK, so you have to remember i was in New Zealand for three weeks and Sydney for 5 days with my parents and now i had to go back into Crazy Ville - South East Asia. Well i arrived in Bangkok and it really took me a couple of days to adjust and deal with everything. It wasn't easy and anyone who's been to Bangkok, well you know its a gigantic crazy city. Anyway stayed there two days before going onto Cambodia where i spent a week visiting two sites i wanted to see.

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

I spent half of my week at Siem Reap to visit the incredible temples of Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat was built by Suryayarman II in the 12th Century as his state temple and capital city. He also built other temples in Angkor for his wife and other family members. Angkor is a significant religious centre both for Hind, dedicated to Vishnu and Buddhist. Considering how old the temple is it was in quite good condition and i was pleased to teams working on restoring different temples.

I managed to get up in time to enjoy the sunrise at Angkor Wat. A beautiful red sun just rising over the rain forest and temples.

I took a guide and went round in a tuk-tuk to visit all the temples. There are so many temples spread of several kilometers so you do need time to see it all and a guide to make sense of it for you otherwise it could be somewhat overwhelming to comprehend.

It was a beautifully warm day (scotching actually) and i really enjoyed my tour of the temples.

That night i went out with my guide, the tuk-tuk driver with another mate of theirs and we partied with the locals.

The following day i took a boat south from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen to visit the killing fields and the infamous S21 prison. My journey along the river took me some 6 hours through the centre of Cambodia. I saw how important the river was to these people as a source of food and income.

S21 Prison, Phnom Phen

Arriving in Phnom Phen i first visited the killing fields some 15-20minutes outside the city. To be honest there was not a lot of information on site, it was more left to your imagination but basically i saw fields with large holes that were clearly mass grave sites. As i said i found it hard to get a real understanding of what took place until i visited the S21 Prison where all was explained in detail.

A brief background, in the 1970's during the midst of the cold war America secretly bombed parts of Cambodia with around 6 billion dollars worth of bombs before retreating from South Vietnam into Cambodia and attacking it. The Khmer Rouge then decided to recruit people to fight the threatening force. After America left, Cambodia was left in the throes of civil war in which the Khmer Rouge prevailed.

In Phnom Phen one of the largest secondary schools under the rule of Pol Pot was turned into a torture camp and prison called S21. All members of the previous regime, lawyers, teachers, doctors, educated people and even people just for wearing spectacles were brought to this jail along with all members of their families before being executed at the killing fields. I saw mug shot pictures of the people who were detained there and i could clearly read in these peoples faces that they just didn't understand how or why they got to the place they were in that moment in time.

The cells the people were held in were so small you could not fit a single bed in them and the people were permanently tied to the floor with metal foot holds. Some cells had windows, others didn't! I saw the different methods of torture used and there was so much textual information and imagery that it left almost nothing to the imagination. There was still blood on the walls.

I spent around 4 hours here feeling distraught, astonished and deeply shocked at this treatment of humanity only 30 years ago. In the 3 and a half years that the Khmer Rouge were in power, over 17000 people left this particular prison for the Killing Fields, and only 10 actually survived.

Do we really ever learn? Rwanda....

It was heart rendering experience and i needed time alone at the end to compose myself and let sink in what i had witnessed. It was important to me to learn and understand what took place.

Finally I visited the Cambodia Land Mine museum which was set up by a former Khmer Rouge child soldier Aki Ra in 1997 from where Aki had been clearing mines throughout his country. Aki learnt about de-mining when he worked for the UN as a de-mining expert. By 2001 with help from foreign experts and funds the museum is now an NGO slowly progressing on the de-mining of all of Cambodia's country side. http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/

New Zealand

2009-01-04T01:16:00.016+01:00

New Zealand
Arriving in New Zealand was a culture shock to say the least. From leaving the poorest country in Latin America and arriving in one of the cleanest and least populated countries in the world, to be honest, it was a shock but also a welcome break.

Leaving Bolivia on December 19th and arriving on the 21st, i was picked up by long distant family member Brian Knolles, and i was grateful to him. It was 4am. I spent a little time with Brian and his family that day, and very welcoming they all were, before taking a bus to the West coast to surf. Raglan beach. Famous for its consistent decent waves in New Zealand.

Raglan
Raglan is a small, very friendly chilled out kind of town, famous for its surf, with the nearest surf beach being five minutes away. I found a really great hostel in Raglan, i rocked up at 6pm, asked what time it got dark, they said 9.30pm, also saying i could take the hostel car and go with surf board and wetsuit to the beach for a few hours. Game On! Just what i wanted. Along with a couple of others at the hostel i took the car and surfed a few hours that evening, watching the sunset in colours of red, violet, blue and orange. Caught some great waves and just soaked up the big nature. I stayed at Raglan for three days before returning to Auckland for the families Christmas day and Boxing Day festivities. I felt so welcome and at home and i am truly thankful to Brian and Delia for my days with them, very relaxing and enjoyable. Thank you.

South Island, Queenstown

From Auckland in the North island where i spent a week (far too short) i visited the south island for two weeks, flying into the majestic lakes and mountains of Queenstown. Queenstown, perched on a huge lake with mountains all around is a lively fun town with many outdoor adventure activities. I rented a mountain bike a went cycling in the nearby forests. Hardcore tracks to say the least. The forest in Brussels is a walk in the park compared to the steep hills me and a mate had to deal with. Also went river surfing which is basically body boarding down a river with rapids. I have to say i still prefer white water rafting the original way, but it was fun. Ashamed to admit it but i didn't have the nerve to do a bungy jumpy, its just not my thing and i never managed to arrange a sky dive. That being said if i had to choose, it would be sky dive, although i am not mad on either. Give me a wave any day.

Below some pics of the New Zealand landscape of the South island.

Milford Sound Fjord
Once settled in i managed a visit to the famous Milford Sound Fjord. After taking the bus there i boarded a boat and sailed down the fjord with its 1000m high rock faces and waterfalls on either side. The water being an emerald green, the rock faces a dark gun metal grey black. To be honest i find it hard to describe this astonishing beauty, i hope the photos help to set the scene.

The fjords did remind me of the fjords i saw in Norway many years ago. Just magical.

I came back to Queenstown for New Year, had a blast with the fellow travellers in my hostel then headed up the north west coast to visit the glaciers.

Franz Jozef Glacier
Franz Jozef is one of only three glaciers in the world (one other Fox Glacier, is 20mins down road and one in Patagonia) that actually reach temperate climbs of 300m above sea level. This was a special experience and i know i am very fortunate to walk on a glacier.

We were given all the equipment and boots and crampons to wear. We walked almost 1km up the glacier, it went on for another 13km! I saw a blue crystal like colour in the ice and its walls. I saw water gushing like waterfalls within the glacier. The guide told us that in fact the glacier was not shrinking as we all thought might be happening with regards to global warming but in fact was in a healthy condition.

Arthur's Pass
From Franz Jozef i took the scenic train from West to East across the south island stopping at Arthur's Pass, one of the many big walking areas in New Zealand. The next day the weather wasn't great but i told the local tourist board where i was going so they were aware. I walked for about 2-3hrs uphill to get to the top of Arthur's Pass mountain. I reached the snow level and had a cold windy picnic at the top. No one around at all. Again pics don't do it justice but hey, its better than nada. I don't think one could do this kind of walk in winter. the top was very precarious, loose rocks and gail force winds.

Finally after having spent only three weeks in New Zealand, just enough to get a flavour, i found the country and its nature huge, awesome and breathtaking. With quality of roads that they have everywhere all nature was made easily accessible. The Kiwi's are just fun loving friendly people, many a time i hitchhiked here and enjoyed the conversations we had.

Anyway from here i flew to Sydney before going on to Asia and i met my parents for 4-5days in Sydney. I was so happy. Remember that i haven't been away from home like this ever before, to not see my family for 6months was a long time. We had a wonderful few days together in beautiful Sydney. Visited some of the sights, walked through the botanical gardens and stayed at a very plush huge penthouse apartment. Pure luxury. I loved it and the time i spent with them. Thanks Mum and dad for coming out that way, holidaying in New Zealand making it possible for us to spend some time together. It was great. Thank you both.

The view from our apartment terrace of Sydney at night.

My Thoughts on Latin America

2009-01-03T04:13:00.016+01:00

It surprised me how easy it was to travel in Latin America, buses going to all places, all the time and frequently. Usually costing between $1-2 per hour travelled, and when it came to switching buses, the next bus was there waiting for you. Sometimes they were not the most comfortable of buses or roads to ride on, but you got their without fail, even if the bus broke down, which happened rarely.

People
My overall feeling of the people and the continent for that matter was one of warmth. Although the people are poor, they are rich in heart. i felt that throughout my travels in Latin America and it was proven to my time and again on buses, boats, roadside cafes and bars. I would be sitting there on a bus and then suddenly a local teacher would begin chatting me, in Spanish! I think the only place where i did not feel this warmth was in Dangriga Belize. They weren't to keen on me and i don't think it was anything personal, more like the colour of my skin and their history (ex-British colony now overrun by Americans). Aside, all the other people were very friendly and despite what the negative propaganda says, Colombia was one of the cleanest, modern and friendliest countries of them all.

It became clear to me the American's had a hand in most of the recent histories in Central America. For example i learnt that 95% of the banana plantations in Honduras are actually owned by the US, not the locals. There are other examples, regards this 'interfering' but i found less so in South America, aside from in Colombia, where the US like to earn $500Mil PA for their gun sales, for the supposed war on Cocaine.

Culture
I loved the strong indigenous cultures i interacted with and was extremely happy to see these peoples and their cultures still very much in place today. I was happily surprised at how pervasive they were. I know i am fortunate to experience this first hand. They are not like us Westerners. They are from another place, another custom and value system. Both the Mayans of Gutemala and the Inca's of Peru and Bolivia seemed to be very proud of their ancestral past and it was shown in their dress, dance, sacred sites (Tikal, Machu Picchu, Coban) and knowledge of natural medicines of rain forests. The local Shamans knowledge of the medicinal purposes of plants, flowers and trees in the rain forest was so in-depth, simply amazing. I am glad to say i came across two projects, one in Ecuador, one in Peru, whereby the shamans along with the help of the village elders and their governments, are now i the process of formally documenting their knowledge of the medicinal plants before the older generations die, and the knowledge received from their ancestors, dies with them.

Nature
The landscape sometimes left me speechless, which i think is the best way. Be silent, behold and admire. Just immerse yourself with the nature and enjoy. No thought, just wonder! The magical volcano lakes of Guatemala was my first great natural experience (see video), then the Primary tropical rain forests of Isla Omepete in Nicaragua (see video) to the jungles of Ecuador and Bolivia to the amazing Salt Flats of Bolivia (see video) and the pure sun drenched San Blas islands of Panama (see video). Of course i cannot forget to mention the Andes. Snow capped colossal mountains towering 6500m high, second only to the Himalayas. Now place for people prone to altitude sickness. Being a nature a lover i tried to get a good balance of beach, forest, mountains and anything in between whilst visiting the colonial towns and experiencing the different cultures. On that note, i found all the capital cities to be awful, dangerous, polluted with ugly buildings, bar La Paz, where i had a good time going down The World's most Dangerous road on a mountain bike and visiting San Pedro prison. What a place! In fact i only enjoyed the Colonial towns such as Antigua, Cartegena, Leon and Granada. They were vibrant towns filled with colourful, beautiful architecture. As for the Capitals, absolutely nothing compared to London, Paris or Madrid.

Food
I must be honest though, i did not like the food much. Throughout the entire continent you get served Beans, Rice, Platano (fried banana) and some meat, fried! No herbs. No spices. No sauces. Dry as the Kalahari desert. I had no choice so i had to get on with it, but i lost my beer belly in the first three weeks, due to diarrhea. Lets call it acclimatising. The only food i really enjoyed was the soups. Flavoursome, wholesome and full of vitamins and goodness. In my mind there is definitely room for a 'Culinary school of Cuisine'. They have good earth, great climate and rain, most of the fruits and veggies you can think of, they just don't have a clue how use herbs and cook. Oh well. They seem to eat it, even if it is greasier than a lorries engine and it shows. I was surprised at the number of poor overweight people. It reminded me of Brazil. Sad but true. Poor diet and now exercise. Oh well.

Music

Music is absolutely verywhere, buses, houses, streets, everywhere, so much so i don't think they like silence... Music is part of their soul, living in their hearts and under their skin. I observed this best in the bars and clubs of Colombia. The hot throbbing of bodies so close and yet so in tune with each other when they dance. Beautiful to watch. My advice to anyone thinking of visiting Latin America, have some Spanish classes before you go and some there if needed but also do take up a few salsa classes, it makes a big difference on the dance floor.

Hostels

The majority of hostel were good and more importantly they had dorms with communal kitchens, communal lounges and bars. It made it easier to meet other travellers. I am not a big fan of guest houses, everyone in their own rooms.

Overall i loved Latin America and i do look forward to visiting the rest of the Continent someday soon. I would definitely advise anyone who wanted a real cultural, warm and exciting experience to visit and would be happy to offer any help or information i can give.

That's all for now Friends, so onwards and upwards to New Zealand.

BOLIVIA

2008-12-18T20:03:00.022+01:00

BOLIVIA

La Paz, Bolivia

Arriving in La Paz is mind blowing. Located 4000m high in the mountains with 2million inhabitants, just houses and buildings everywhere. Look at the pics and video. I have never seen anything like it. Rocked up to the Wild Rover hostel, good crack, next registered for, of course, The World's Most Dangerous Road mountain bike ride. Has to be done, ...when in Rome and all that.

The World´s Most Dangerous Road, La Paz

We left very early in the morning and drove for about an hour up to the top of the mountain some 4500metres high. It was freezing! The bikes were amazing, $2500 a pop. We had about 10 in our group and headed on down. About a quarter of the 42km were tarmac, namely the first bit, the rest was full on off road with drops of 1km to the side. As we went down we would take off more layers because it got hotter and hotter until we were cycling down into the rain forest. I had a feeling of deja-vous ala Machu Picchu.

I did have my own personal problem though, namely irritable bowl syndrome. Serious stomach cramps and pains not to mention the rest. I had obviously been eating too much of those local delicacies again (bring on New Zealand food). Finally we stopped for lunch so i managed to find some toilet paper and ran into the forest to relieve myself. Thank goodness. It felt good and i felt a lot better afterwards. (I hope its not too much information, i just thought you might laugh :-).

To be honest although the roads were extremely dangerous and even more so when you had a lorry coming at you and another trying to over take it, i felt the margin for error was much less compared to the motorbike ride to Machu Picchu. I guess the speed factor was less even though we did bomb it down. Me trying to keep up with this mad Ducth man at the front. funny. Anyway i didn't fall and got to the bottom in one piece and as they say got the t-shirt (free in you completed the ride ok).

San Pedro Prison, La Paz, Bolivia

The second crazy thing i did in La Paz was visit the infamous prison, San Pedro. If you have ever read the book Marching Powder you will know the lovely hotel i am talking about. Me and a mate Zack were sitting on this park bench outside the prison as we were told to by other travellers when this big black guy approached us. I said to Zack, here we go man, i bet he's the one. He was. He asked us if we were interested in visiting the prison, of course we were. Well i couldn't believe it.

We agreed the price and waited in this room off the entrance the size of a small toilet, with a few other travellers who were waiting too. Moments later this guy entered saying he was our guide and these other four guys were our bodyguards. you what! They opened the steel prison gates and we went in. Prisoners everywhere, roaming about. looking bloody dodgy and dangerous. Bolivian prison. Hello.

It was like a maze in there, small corridors just enough for maybe two people to pass sideways. We went through this one corridor called Base Alley. It stank, Stank of chemical poison. For though unfamiliar with the dregs of the drug world, base is a cocaine derivative also known as crack cocaine. Prisoners, continually, hour after hour, day after day, smoking crack cocaine. Not pleasant is an understatement. It was very sad and scary to be honest. They just looked like vacant zombies.

We continued walking and then we saw children in the prison. I asked i guard, whats the crack with the kids. he said of the 1500 inmates, there are 200 families. Apparently its better for the kids to grow up there with there family than to be left in the hands of the non-existent Bolivian welfare system. You cant judge, you just have to take it in. This is part of the world we live in although i am sure the majority of us are oblivious to it.

Another shocking fact, they have a factory in there producing some 1.5tonnes of **** a month. I was astounded. Can you imagine! And i didn't see a police man or guard in site. The guide said they keep guard themselves and deal with any problems themselves. Paedophiles are killed immediately. I met this one man, who looked harmless, well he had been living in this whole, big enough for a bed, that's it, you couldn't stand up in there, well he had been there 29 years. ready to leave in a year. Apparently whether you murder one person or 100, you get 30 yrs. I just couldn't begin to imagine how he lived there for so long. He must be totally institutionalised (like in Shawshack redemption). I wonder if he would have a clue what to do with himself if/when he leaves. Poor man.

I have to say its one of the most scariest places i have visited to date. no kidding!

Well after all that i needed to get back to reality and aside from the bike ride and the prison, the two things i really wanted to see in Bolivia was Park National Maidi in Rurrenabaque the Amazon and the famous salt flats in Uyuni. Well i just managed to (time wise).

Rurrenabaque, Bolivia
I cheated and paid the $100 dollar return flight to the amazon instead of the harrowing 18hr dirt road bus ride. Trust me, it was well worth it. You just have to splurge sometimes. The flight itself was amazing, leaving La Paz, flying not so high over the snow covered Andean peaks and then down into the amazon jungle with its tributaries and carpet rainforest's. That morning i met up with the seven other travellers in my group, a mix of crazy Irish and English. After the three hour awful jeep ride on the dirt road we made it to one of the Amazon tributaries where we boated down for a couple of hours until we got to our camp.

I have to tell you, the amount of animals we saw was astonishing. Cayman like crocodiles everywhere, i mean hundreds. Cocabara's which are a mix between rats and beavers i guess but the size of dogs. Herbivores.

We also went for a trek into the jungle and found both anaconda snakes and adder snakes. At one point i was just standing by the water and then i saw this tiny snake, 40cm long. I said, Diego (our guide) whats that. he said. Luke step back now. Of course i did. he told me it was a death adder. forget its size, its so poisonous it kills a man within 20minutes after one bite and they

have no cure. Ok ok. I shall stick with you.

But it was just great to be out in the real nature. Although we did come across some land that had obviously been slashed and burned. I thought that strange for a protected national park. Diego told me the gov had sold it for money and then the big old trees, some 800yrs old are removed and the land left to waste. The truth hurts. But that is reality. Money talks, bullshit walks. Sad.

All in all i did love the 3 days i had there. The landscape reminded me of the Panatanal in Brazil where i went last year. Very similar. I do hope to see more of the rain forest during the rest of my journey in South East Asia.

Oh and for the boys and girls at home, i learnt a fantastic drinking game from the Irish called circle of death. Trust me, we will be playing it when i get back. haha.

Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia

The Salt Flats in Bolivia are the largest in the world. Some 12000km square. Millions of years ago there was a vast expanse of water stretching between the Andean mountains and the Occidental mountains. Over time the water dried up causing this huge white white expanse.

And in the middle of it we visited one of these islands covered from head to toe in Catie.

Check out the awesome videos below.

I did a three day tour, had some cool Swiss girls in my group, Mary and Silvia and Simon. A good group. After the first day visit to the salt flats we drove in a 4x4 jeep and visited green, red, white and yellow lagoons filled with pink flamingos.

They are obviously there for the mineral values the water offers them. i do have some beautiful pictures which you'll see below. Such a stark difference in landscape from the rain forest but just a beautiful in their own right. Plus there´s one of down and dirty in mi andean clothing!

The weather there is quite extreme, in the day 30C and at night -5C but we were all good.

The only bad thing of this trip was coming back. i had paid for a tourist bus to get back and yet when i got to the agency they told me protesters in La Paz had not let the bass pass so i had to get on a local 'chicken bus'. Not fun at all. A 12hr night bus that stank of toilet and pooh. Oh well, i guess this is literally getting down and dirty with the locals, hey.

Back now safely in La Paz, I fly out tomorrow to Auckland New Zealand. Honestly i have really enjoyed my 6 months in Latin America. I do hope at some point to write a page or so regarding my thoughts of the continent, its people and culture. I would highly advise visiting Latin America. It is a rich country in both people, landscapes and culture, if not money. That being said, i feel i am ready for the next phase of my tour of the world. I am really excited about visited New Zealand. i have heard such great things about the country, its people and landscape and i am sure those high expectations will be met. But that's all for now folks. Will be in touch soon. Over and out. Luke.

PERU

2008-12-17T23:54:00.031+01:00

PERU
Mancora, Peru

It was another long day of travelling, 12hrs+ when i made it over the border from Ecaudor to Peru to the famous surf town of Mancora. As soon as i arrived i went straight to the beach and found what i had been searching for. Perfect tubular waves, lefties, consistent and smooth. So donned on the rash vest got a board and just surfed for the next two days. i loved it. Surfing is something i have wanted to do all my life, since i was a small boy, its in my blood and heart but i never had the opportuntiy really until Abbie moved to Spain. Anyway, every chance i get on my travels i try and get a few days of surf in. Its amazing for the soul and spirit, trust me.

Huarraz, Peru
From Mancora i took an arduos 18+hr bus journey into the Andean mountains of Peru, Huarraz. I had been looking forward to seeing this part of Peru, the true Andies at 6000m +. Well i certainly experienecd it. I only had three days but i managed to find a group of friends within my hostel to come with me horesriding one day, trekking one day and mountain biking the last day. The horse riding was great and we saw some spectacular views but the mountain biking was my favourite. Me, two others and our execllent guide Pedro put the bikes on top of a taxi and drove up hill to the top of one the mounatins in the Cordella Blanca region, some 4000 metres high. Then set up the bikes and downhill mostly all the way. We cycled for about 5-6hrs downhill on dirt tracks, accross valleys and farms and some very tricky rocky parts. I just cruised, the other couple had some difficulties, it was there first time but we all made it back safely. Sadly i dont have any pics of Mancora or Huarraz, this is about the time when my small rucksack was stolen from me with all my valuables. Shit happens (some say for a reason?). Anyway if i can get some pics from those guys i will post them up here.

Cusco, Peru
Having arrived in Lima from Huarraz, when my rucksack got stolen from beside me at the bus station, well then i went to the police and then the British consulate. I chose the consulate in Cusco, not Lima, seeing as i would have to wait 10days. Cusco is a great place to have to stay for a while. Machu Picchu, party town, head HQ of the Inca civilisation back in the day and generally a very cool place. My parents helped me with money, thans mum and dad, and while i waited for my new passport, well of course i had to visit Machu Pichu, but not any old way.

The boys, ripping it in in the clubs in Cusco. Those poor girls!

The Monster bike ride to Machu Picchu, Peru

I met this Dutch guy Erik (in the brown top above) in the same hostel and he also wanted to go to Machu Picchu, but he like me also wanted to rent motorbikes to get there. Well, ....where do i start.

We rock up to this shop and after some negotiations price wise, they amazingly agreed to take me to a football pitch to learn, practice, get used to riding a 250cc off road motor bike. I have never riden a bike in my life! Erik had only ridden once before. After about an hour i was still very uneasy and nervous but we had to get back. I sat on the back of the bike through the traffic and it was a nightmare. It just freaked me out. After a few more discussoons they agreed to let me rent the bike for three days and go to Machu Picchu. You what! No bike insurance nothing. OK, game on! I did have a helmet, jacket and gloves.

We left the next morning at 6am to avoid the traffic, i was going so slowly, like 30-40k/hr on the tarmac. Man i had to get used to the bike, the roads, the traffic. Anyway, we carried on and had our first stop after about two hours to take a pic and have some water. The guy in the shop said the journey takes 6hrs. Getting back on the bike, well damn thing wouldnt bloody start. Shit man. From then on, each time we had to start Erik's bike we had to push and jump start it. Great. Those things weigh about 300kg i guess. Well we 'manned up' and got on with it finding a slope and continuing on.

The journey takes you from Cusco, up the Andean mounatins some 4500m high through very windy roads (like in the French Alps) and on into cold wet cloud cover until you get over the top and down the other side, into jungle, rain forest and no more tarmac. Dirt roads only. We stopped for some interesting food at asome local place (see my face), soup with chicken claw etc...,i do love Latin American food!

Well buy this time i was getting much more confident with the bike. We had been going some 7-8hrs by now (so much for 6hrs in total) and we were going along the final long stretch on dirt road about 1-2metres wide. Through jungle, into huge massive valley raviens with drops of over 500m on the side. Well, i was crusing at about 60km/hr on the straights by now. Just excillerating but of course extremely dangerous, absolutely no room for error. The level of concentraion is just intense. Your life literally in your hands! After about 12hrs! we finally made it to our destination, Santa Teresa. We parked up the bikes safely, ate, then got ready for the 2hr hike along the railway tracks in the dark (no trains at that time) to Agua Calientes, the twon at the bottom of Machu Picchu. We got to Agua Calientes 20mins before the ticket off closed at 10pm, bought our tickets, got a hostel and slept. We woke at 4.30am next morning and made it on the first bus up to Mahcu Picchu.

Just quickly, when driving reaching the summit of the moutinas to cross over from rain forest to snow capped peaks, our hands got so cold that we couldnt use them anymore and found this hut at the top of the moutina with two women and one Quechuian man in their 60's and 70's who took us in so we could ring out the water from our shoes, socks, gloves, jackets etc. We stayed for over an hour drying by there fire. We didn't have any money left but we gave them what little food we had to say thank you. They pretty much saved us from phnemonia.

The ride back into the busy streets of cusco was easy, over taking lorries etc. So what i am basically saying is that i will def be renting more motorbikes when i am in south east asia. The freedom of the road away from tourists, its hard to beat!

Machu Picchu, Peru
Machu Picchu, what can i say. Jeeze. The lost city of the Inca's lis ocated some 2400metres high on a flat plain saddled between two forest mountains, with a commanding view down two valleys and a nearly impassable mountain at its back.

Built in 1460, Machu Picchu meaning Old Peak (the name was taken frrm the name of the surrounding moutains because they dont actually know its real name) was discovered by the American Hiram Bingham in 1911 with the help of a local. It was completely covered by rain forest. The Spanish never found and so couldn't plunder this sacred site unlike most other sacred Inca sites they plundered, hence its pristine condintion, which i thought remarkably (the condition). It is a Unesco World Heritage listed site but actually due to the number of visitors each year (roughly half a million) it is now Unesco's list of Worlds Endagered heritage sites.

The Incas were among the best stone masons the world has ever seen apparently, and many junctions in the central city are so perfect that it is said not even a knife blade fits between the stones. They the classical Inca architectural style of polished dry stone walls of regular shape in which blocks of stone are cut to fit together tightly without mortar.

Erik and i made the hike up to Waynah Pichu some 500m higher and looked down onto the site. Its layout shaped like a condor. Look closely at the pics and you'll see. My favorite spot was where i took both the video and pics. It overlooks Machu Picchu but you also gain a feeling for its natuarl hidden location. There werent that many tourists, i expected more and i defintealy felt a very good energy from the location. Machu Picchu is a very special place, fact, and i advise anyone visiting near Peru to see for themselves. I feel fortunate.

Lake Titikaka, Peru

After finally getting my new passport and one bank card sent to me i was dying to get out of Cusco. It had been 10days and i just wanted to get on the road again, heading for the magical and highest lake in the world, Lake Titikaka. This was also the day of my birthday.

My first visit by boat was to these floating villages that literally float on reads upon the water. Bizzare. The people replace the reads by placing new reads on top when the old ones below desintergrate.

I was with small group of fellow travellers and we sailed on to another island, Amante, where we would be staying with our respective families. To be honest i expected much worse conditions, i mean we did have electirty at night! That being said the toilet was just disgustuing, a hole in the ground that stank like hell (not my first and not my last i am guessng). We walked up to one of the sacred inca citadels high up on the moutain, a beatufil place to be quiet as you will see from the video (execpt for the other bloody tourists).

That night, my birthday night, after eating our very fine home cooked delicaies NOT, we all dressed up in traditional andean dress and danced the night away with the locals in their village hall. We all had a lot of fun and i have to say, no i wont forget that particualr birthday party! haha!

The lake was actually my last stop before headng into crazy Bolivia, my last country in Latin Amercia i will visit before leaving for New Zealand, Asia and India. I can't believe its been five months, time has flewn, but i must say i do feel ready to move on. Once i survive Bolivia...

ECUADOR

2008-11-17T02:16:00.021+01:00

ECUADOR

Quiotola Crater lake, Ecuador

Straight from the border of Colombia, a fellow traveller, Travis and I journeyed to the Andean mountains of Ecuador to province of Latagunga to visit the Quiotola crater. Many years ago a volcano this volcano imploded and the result now is this beautiful green turquoise crater lake some 3500metres above see level. On the first day we walked down to the waters edge and chilled out and caught our breath before walking back up. On the second day i walked around the carter itself, some 4hours with a group of travellers i met the night before. As you will see the views were stunning from all sides and it was even possible to see the volcano Cotopaxi at 5900 metres.

Banos, Ecuador

Banos, known for its spring baths, well hardly, man made swimming pools filled by natural springs, Banos is also known for its outdoor activities, one of them being the big the 60km bike ride from Banos to Puno. Well of course i could not resist. A group of us left early one morning on mountain bikes riding partially on tarmac and off road. The road being both up and down, sometimes a killer going up. However the scenery is well worth it. Huge mountains covered with pristine rain forest, waterfalls falling from the side of the road as we cycled along.

We stopped and visited the magnificent ¨Devils throat¨waterfall, of course the pics don't so it any justice but just the scale of water falling per second was so powerful. Later on we found this ¨Banos Natuaralles¨which is a basically a beautiful rock pool swimming area beside the Rio Verda (clear water). Just beautiful. We stopped here for lunch and chilled. We then carried finally reaching Puno some 7-8hrs later. We got the bus back to Banos. We were shattered!

TENA, Ecudaor

I met up with a friend, Zoe, and we travelled on to Tena, the white water rafting capital of Ecudaor and also home to the Amazon rain forest. We found a nice hostel in Tena and sorted our rafting trip for the next day. Well it was decent Class III rapids all the way. We had an excellent guide who managed to get us soaked whenever possible. The scenery was of course just beautiful and even Zoe who was slightly apprehensive to start with loved it. On another trip into the jungle we visited an animal rescue sanctuary by boat, thought i would share some of the animal pictures with you, aaahhhhh.

From there, via via, i managed to get in contact with a local guide named Juan, who let us stay with his family in their village in the amazon. Juan took us for walks into the jungle explaining all the different medicinal purposes of several different plants. Juans´father being a Shaman and his fathers close friend, Franciso, being the President of the Ecudorian Shamans, well lets just say they had vast amounts of knowledge between with regards to the plants in the forest and their properties. On that note i was introduced to ayahuasca (see http://www.ayahuasca.com/). A drink produced from mixing a vine from the forest with a particular green leaf called Charlie, used to enter the spirit world. Well it would have been rude of me not to have partaken, so i did!. Honestly, i didnt have the visions they spoke of, a little numbness but no hallucinations. Oh well, we shall see what happens next time!

So much so in fact that Francisco is working with the Ecuadorian government to secure a tract of rain forest whereby a university is going to be set up and all the knowledge that he and his peers knows will be properly captured and documented. A very interesting and worthwhile project i think, certainly before all the rain forest is destroyed. (Funnily enough i met an American doing the same thing, documenting the plants, i will bring them in contact with each other).

Below, these were the local village kids that performed a dance for us in their traditional dress.

And here below i did a little video diary below at the crater lake, aaahhhh.

COLOMBIA

2008-11-09T00:57:00.025+01:00

Cartegena, Colombia
Arriving in the port of Cartegena having been at sea for five days was a huge reality shock. Large tower blocks, cargo containers, people, traffic, the lot. Not very nice. That being said, Cartegena is a beautiful colony town. The old town is full of colourful Spanish architecture and history. I stayed in Cartegena for a few days and met some really nice people at both my hostel and on this strange mud volcano tour (see pic). Finally Ben, Alex, Zoe, Rowan and myself all decided to go to the national Park Tayrone on the Caribbean coast. Oh dear, more harsh times ahead! God, the life of a traveller, i tell you, ....you should try it!

Park Tayrone

We stayed in a little fishing village, Taganga for one night before taking a 1hr boat ride to the park. When we initially got there is was full of tourists, again! However, then next couple of days a lot of them left and it was a lot more peaceful. We went for walks to nearby beaches, did some fantastic snorkeling and generally had a really great time. Apart from the last night. I managed to get us all in to the top chalet location over looking the sea. Just beautiful, except for that night one of the hardest storms in recent weeks hit the coast we everyone got drenched. Hard rain coming in horizontally. We laughed about it afterwards.

Medellin, Colombia

After being about a week together the group split and Ben and I headed for Medellin where we meet up with a local Colombian friend of his Felipe. Medellin is buzzing, as busy as any modern city with friendly people and well the women, say no more. Silicon Valley! Felipe was such a nice guy, we stayed at his place, he should Ben and I the nightlife of Medellin including the famous Mangos nightclub that was coincidental holding the ¨October Beerfeest¨ that night (see pic!). We had a blast!

A little hungover the next day, Felipe showed around some neighbouring towns of Medellin. It was a great couple of days.

La Salento, Colombia

Thereafter I headed to the mountains, to a very special coffee growing village called Salento. It´s one of my favourite village towns in Colombia. A quiet, beautiful, colourful town and within its rain forest the unique wax palms. Unique to Colombia and unique only to Salento the wax palms grow up to 60metres tall and can be a 100yrs old. I met some other travellers and we made the six hour hike through the rain forest in a loop round to the wax palms. I felt the Corcoa valley to be a very magically valley with a very special energy. Calm and peaceful, perfecting for meditating if you were on your own. The pictures don't do the valley justice, i am not sure the video does either but i hope you enjoy.

From Salento i passed through Manizales and visited the snow capped peaks of Park Los Nevados. I stayed in Cali for a few days, saw more silicon valley and then from there i did a day trip with a mate to a beautiful river however the main attraction was getting to the river. A motor bike attached to a train track packed with far too many people. Dangerous. We couldn't really believe our eyes or what we about to embark upon. We sat on these wooden planks attached to a motorbike that was attached somehow to an old disused railway track. It was a little crazy, certainly when we saw others come off the rails and we ourselves almost hit another bike and of one of the passengers got hurt. Check out the crazy video below.

Ipales, Colombia

I headed further south towards Ecuador but first visiting the border town of Ipales and its famous church. There is a very special church built between two valleys, over a river with its own waterfall. When there I learnt that the local priest saw a vision many years ago of the Virgin Mary on a rock nearby. With that the priest gathered the support to build this magnificent building. I think its the most beautiful church, both architecturely and location wise that i have ever visited and trust me, i have visited a few churches in my time.

PANAMA

2008-10-05T19:10:00.019+02:00

Boca del Torro, Panama

Boca del Torro is a archipelago of islands on the Caribbean shores of Panama. I took a bus and then a boat through the national marine marine reserve to get to the main island but when i finally got there i wasn't that impressed. Just a lot of tourists. Not really my bag. I met these cool french guys on the way so we decided to get a hostel for the night and see. Next morning woke up and decided i wasn't gonna stay. They felt the same, so we ended up getting a boat to find a smaller more chilled island, which we did but not before i got my head shaved. I liked it. Anyway we landed this very cool place with rooms, hammocks, kitchen, decking out onto to sea and i just chilled with them for 3-4 days and had a good laugh before getting my sail boat to Colombia.

San Blas Islands, Panama

The San Blas islands are probably the purest collection of sea islands i have ever had the fortune to experience. There are some 350 islands in total, some being 3x3m with two trees others the size of a football pitch. Governed by the Kuna tribe of Panama, the islands have remained intact largely due to the Kuna tribe having 1 seat of the 7 at the Panamanian governing body that decides its fate. The Panama government would like to turn the islands into resorts and hotels, the Kuna tribe have stopped this until now. There are about 5000 inhabitants that live closely together on one main island and there are four smaller islands with four large huts spaced out on each island. Each family in turn spends three months in of the cabins, a sort of break from the main island. The picture below is of a typical sail boat they use for fishing. Our boat was just a little bigger.

I sailed from Colon in Panama through the islands to Cartegena with nine other really cool people and our crazy captain Guido, ze German. We set off at night and all took turns on night watch, looking out for electrical storms coming our way and cargo tankers. We all had to cook and wash up but other than that, of the five days we were at sea, we spent three of them on islands, swimming, relaxing and basically having a very hard life!

It was the first time i had ever experienced seeing dolphins in the wild. On the first night during my night watch i heard this splash in the quiet of the sea. Immediately i thought dolphins. I ran carefully to the front of the boat and in the moonlight there was this silver shiny dolphin swimming along. A second later, his mate was on the other side of the boat. Amazing. Just swimming in the wave of the boat. To top this however, during one of our days at sea, a family of seven dolphins came by the front wave of the boat. Jumping up and down, swimming, coming up for air. it was unbelievable. AND, i had my camera with me so i took a video - see below. Just beautiful.

COSTA RICA

2008-10-03T22:35:00.025+02:00

Monteverde, Costa Rica

A couple of guys i traveled with in Isla Omepete in Nicaragua joined me to Costa Rica, Edward and Simon. It was a nightmare getting to the mountains of Monteverde purely because we missed our bus connections. We finally got there and it was very worth it. Very green verdant forest with sloths, macaws, butterflies and all sorts of insects. The first day we chilled but the second day we did a Canopy tour in the forest. We traversed 16+ zip lines through the rain forest. Some zip lines were 250metres long going across two valleys and some 150metres high. A lot of fun basically. You better get over a fear of heights! (i am still waiting for the pics).

The worst was the Tarzan swing. One guy didn't do it, stating "i got nothing to prove, i ain´t doing it". Basically he was shit scared, but trust me, we all were. I certainly wasn't mad about doing it, those who know me know i am not too keen on heights.

As i was standing at the top of this platform some 20metres in the air my heart was racing like hell. You had to jump free fall for 10metres until the rope took you out into the swing. I plucked up the courage and jumped. It was scary, the jump i mean. A free fall of 10m. The swing was just a lot of fun. You can see from the pics it was a right laugh. After that i wanted to do it a second time, ...but it wasn't possible.

San Luis Waterfall
Possibly the most magical waterfall i have experienced in my life. Ed, Simon and i took a taxi out of town towards this local waterfall. We got to the park, no one there, Sunday, so walked in for free. We walked through rain forest and along this river for about 45mins. Along the way we saw small waterfalls but we couldn't help thinking there was something bigger further ahead. We were so right. We came across larger and large pools of water when finally we saw this huge waterfall of some 50metres high and beyond that another large crevice hole from where the source was coming from. The reward was simple nature at its most beautiful. The water was pure, fresh ice cold, the sun baking hot, rainbows everywhere you looked. we lay there for hours that Sunday afternoon with no one else around us. Just us, Paradise and the moment. Check out the video below and tell me what you think.

I managed to take an awesome video (see below) and pics. I hope you like them. I hope you have a little day dream while at your office desk and think, this could be you too! ...because it could be!

Manuel Antonio, Pacific Coast
Finally i managed to get in some decent consistent surfing. Its the off season, no one around, a kilometer wide bay of golden sand (no rocks!) with perfect surf. I had found paradise. ...well at least another form of paradise in natures vast array of spectacles.

Tim, this guy i traveled with and i managed to cut a deal for 5 days, two boards, $10 a day. Sorted. We found this cool hostel and just surfed ours arses off from morning until dark for 5 days constant. Catching small and then bigger unbroken waves. We both improved no end. That's not to say i am the demon surfer i want to become, all in good time, but i made some real progress that week. Just awesome. I love surfing and if its at all possible i would like to live near a beach that has consistently good surf. I am sure that can be arranged, hahaha!

Punta Mona, Caribbean Coast
It takes a day to travel from the Pacific to the Caribbean coast in Costa Rica and you always have to go via the capital San Jose. Well i made it to Peurto Veujo, party central of the Costa Rican Caribbean, however when i rolled up at Rocking J´s hostel, well i just wasn't in the mood. Packed with loads of people on a mission to get wasted.
I had heard about this self sustaining organic permiculture farm, further down the coast not far from the Panama border. That was where i decided to head to. I got the local bus to take me as far as he could then i found out the rest had to be made via boat. Having tried to negotiate a deal, price of petrol is high, i got a local fisherman to take me some 45mins down the coast to this farm. The farm was very chilled. They grew all sorts of fruit and veg. The food was surprisingly good even if it looked weird and tasted a bit funny. They had one of those toilets which compost, meaning you have to throw in wood carvings after each time. Ummmm.
I dont have anymore pics yet but this is Shanon and i enjoying some star shaped fruit. it was delicious.

NICARAGUA

2008-10-03T16:54:00.036+02:00

Leon & Granada, Nicaragua

Leon and Granada are two beautiful old colonel towns dating back to the Spanish colonizers of 1524. Both are very vibrant, colorful towns, with a student feel to them. All the houses are painted with different colors on their walls and doors. They both have a lot of connections with the politics of Nicaragua and the uprising and independence of the country.

I took some Spanish classes in Leon and learned a little more about the local culture from my teacher. A lawyer who could not get any work and so she turned her hand to teaching. She told me that the average wage was still about $40dollars a month and that half the country is still unemployed, it was still uncommon for a man today to have not only have a wife but also 4-5 other lovers (hence her divorce).

In the towns you have all types of shops you would need white goods (fridges, tv´s etc), supermarkets, chemists etc. However as soon as you leave the town for the countryside you see mainly four walled huts made of clay mud and a corrugated roofs. The majority working as subsistence farmers. That is also the way it is Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador. Very poor but great fun loving people. i loved Nicaragua.

Volcano Boarding, Leon

This was one of the maddest experiences i have had to date. Sledging down a live volcano on stones and rocks on a plank of wood at 68kph for about a km or 2! SHIT! At the foot of the volcano we were given protective suits, goggles for our eyes and a wooden sledge with a piece of plastic attached to the bottom for maximum speed. (see video below).

We walked up the side of this volcano for about an hour and a half in the baking sun. As you will see from the pics the view at the top was amazing. We got to the edge of the volcano and Gemma our guide said, you see that huge steep slope down there where you will be going, and it was long and steep, well the next drop which you cant see is even steeper and i don't want to see anyone breaking. Oh My God! The girls went first and had no major wipe outs. The guys went second, with Gemma saying she didnt want to see any guys breaking. and one guy did really well, not breaking at all. I was the last but one to go. Cruising down the first slope at full speed, only breaking slightly then i got to the second slope and i just felt the speed increase. I thought OH SHIT. You know when you ski full speed down a slope, sometimes you go too fast and just lose it co;pletely. Well. I was hacking it down, at least 40km i guess, then i thought oh shit, this is getting out of hand, small rocks flying into my face and body (thank god for the goggles). I tried to break a little with my feet but at that speed it was realy not easy to keep it together. Finally at full speed i wiped out just before the end of the last slope. It hurt. I rolled and rolled, body all loose, stones and dust everywhere. Finally coming to a stand still 20metres further on i slowly got up. My left wrist was bleading badly. it´s now scarred for life. My legs were scratched badly but they healed. All in all i was ok but it was a heavy tumble, not like faling on soft snow.

The funny thing is you know, i wanted to do it again. I wanted to do it again, get some practice so i could do all the slope at full speed. Crazy! Next time maybe, but it was a truly awesome and unique experience. Volcano boarding, you gotta try it! Leon, Nicaragua. Brilliant.

Isla Omepete

When i arrived on this island, the largest fresh water lake in Central America (178km x 68km) i immediately felt the chilled vibe. There are two volcano's, Madera (1400m) and Constantine, that make up the volcanic island. I stayed near Madera volcano with some other travelers i met on the boat. One day we did the 8hour hike up Madera volcano. Bloody hardcore, that's all i can say. After the first 2-3 grueling hours were over the last hour going up was just magical. I will never forget it. Crawling on hands and knees through Primary rain forest, trees of 400yrs old plus that couldn't grow straight up due to the wind so they grew sideways down the volcano. We literally crawled over and under roots to get to the top, wiping water from the moss of the branches to freshen up my face. I just felt like an interpid explorer. I loved it. At the top we had a clear view of the crater lake and chilled out and ate lunch. I have added some pics i hope you are able to appreciate the beauty of it. Words don't justify the beauty. Put it this way, its the first real Primary rain forst i have experienced, ...and it wont be the last. All Costa Rica is Secondary. Thats how precious the primary rain forest is. (see video below).

I also met some very cool Americans, Adam and Alinthian in Leon and Todd, Arrone and Duane. we chilled out and surfed at Las Palintas. ALL GOOD.

EL SALVADOR

2008-08-21T03:02:00.017+02:00

Punta Roca, La Libertad, El Salvador

Having stayed the night at Pierre and Gaby's, friends of Brigitte, she and I headed for La Libertad. We found a great room on the beach over looking the ocean waves and chilled. We went in the sea, braving the rocks and waves, i chatted with this local who was teaching his son to surf and he let me have a go on his tooth pik of a board. Needless to say i couldn't stand up but he did say he would give some lessons on a bigger board. That night i ate some delicious fish in garlic and oil and the next afternoon after visiting the local market we parted our separate ways. Brigitte wet back to San Salvador for a flight to France and i went to famous El Tunco to surf! (pics below)

El Tunco, El Salvador

Now this is El Salvador, this is not Coasta del Sol in Spain. It is quite rough around the edges here. I mean you can see the beach is full of wood and stuff with a river going into the sea. Plus we have lots of black sand here with some rocks. In fact the bottom is a mixture of sand and rocks as i found out the hard way when i smashed up both my ankles on the rocks and then my hands when i tried to uncooly walk out the water.

I found the locals to be friendly once again which is really important when aclimatising to a new place. If the locals are friendly its half the battle. PLus i was able to practice my very limited Spanish again. To be honest as you will see from the pics there is not a lot at El Tunco except this surf and a very low key tempo. Really nice really when you think about it.

After being scammed for $8 dollars by a local playing taxi man i finally found a decent hostel that had access to the swimming pool opposite in a swanky hotel (they had same owner Oscar). Cool huh! You can see my hostel breakfast/terrace area, it had a kitchen etc.

Anyway i was supposed to go back to La LIbertad for some surf lessons with the two guys we met in the begining. Well i did go back, twice, but when i got there the sea was flat so i just decided to rent a board and go out on my own in El Tunco. I think after about 2hrs i was totally dead and i caught 2 or 3 waves. Crap i know. Hey its just the begining, bit like my Spanish. Give me a year and I´ll become a demond surfer and be able to speak Spanish. ...i hope. Doouuh!

HONDURAS

2008-08-18T03:36:00.032+02:00

HONDURAS 1-11 August

Roatan, Bay Islands
Scuba diving in the Bay Islands is a must if you happen to being within a short flight, e.g. Miami or love scuba diving holidays. I took the boat over from Belize, to Roatan, some 2hrs away and then headed for the West end bay where all the dive shops are. I found some nice accommodation and more importantly a good dive shop with a group of 4 others starting their PADI the next day. 4 Brits (Twin brothers and a couple) Game On!

The courses went really fast actually, we raced through parts 1 & 2 in the morning of day 1 and by the afternoon we were already out in the sea practicing what we had learnt that morning. Fanbloodytastic. We combined doing the practical bits in the water with a dive, such as emptying your mask or gaining neutral buoyancy. In fact, we took 4 days to complete our Open Water PADI. It seemed a lot, it was a lot and it was worth every penny.

The second to last dive was my favourite. We descended down a long a giant wall of coral to our left seeing tortoise and all colours and types of other smaller fish. To your right, well it was just one great blue abyss, the big wide open ocean. Quite a unique place to be in. Its embedded in my mind. We dove until 18metres, swimming around, aside and above all the different coral terrain, making sure we never toughed anything. i really did enjoy it and i had no problems equalizing my ears, although i did think that was going to be a problem. Not so. Cool.

I still cant believe we learned so much and progressed so well in such a short space of time. Only 4 days to complete our Open Water PADI! I do hope later in my travel i can dive again, perhaps in the Caribbean in Costa Rica and Panama or in Thailand and Malaysia.

Copan

I had no expectations of Copan (i am trying to keep my expectations low always so i can be nicely surprised, much like i was with Copan). I took the bus from the north of Honduras to the East passing some of the most beautiful, rugged and vast mountainous terrain i have seen yet and luckily all in one bus! Copan is an old Mayan (2000BC) site of importance to the Mayan civilisation particularly for its stone carvings. Here they spent much time studying astronomy.

http://www.delange.org/Copan1/Copan1.htm
Copan itself was a beautiful small town of 6000 in habitants that solely survive on the tourist dollar. I met some nice people horseback riding including a French girl called Brigitte who got the best horse. I got the horse that was about to have a heart attack every time i wanted to canter, never mind gallop and yet Brigitte´s horse that just wanted to run everywhere. Needless to say i wanted to swap and it didn't happen, but we had a lot of fun!

...the border crossing, Honduras to El Salvador

In fact Brigitte and i decided to travel together to El Salvador from Copan a few days later, she had friends in living in the capital. We left Copan that morning at 10.20am in the sweltering heat but we found out later we had so much luck on our side during the journey. Each time our bus stopped, the guys took our bags (Im like, oh, our bags!) and brought them to the connecting bus 2 seconds away. We followed, of course, and the bus left within minutes. It was so fluid that we even thought we might be able to make the 4.15pm connecting bus at the El Salvador border. Might!

Well we finally got to the border town at 4pm, got a taxi immediately to the border. Whilst we were driving we saw there was a full scale monsoon shower in serious progress. None of this England/Belgium spitting rain crap. It tell you a FULL SCALE MONSOON. So this taxi driver drops us 200metres from the actual boarder crossing. Im like, man drive further, its pouring. He says the Law states we have to walk to the border. Im like, are you kidding me.

OK, Whatever! we get out the cab in our shorts & t-shirts, don on the rain covers and macs and start running in our flip-flops with our 25kilo ruck sacks for the border. When we finally get to the border guard he looks at us, our passports and let us through without stamping (i thought strange, no stamp). Anyway, somehow Brigitte who is running way ahead of me gets a lift from a random, probably showed some leg! I am quite far behind now and having a cardiac arrest. 20kilo on the back and 10k on the front, in flip-flops in El deatho land. Panic starts to set in. I am running in the middle of this road, now in El Salvador, cant see Brigitte anywhere, i ask a girl on the side for directions to bus, she doesn´t know what i am talking about and looks at me like i am barking mad. I stand there drenched in no mans land. Shit!

Finally, after going on further i see this car park in the distance, i head for that and then i see Brigitte holding up the bus from leaving. I was so relived, completely wet but very happy. We both got on the bus and finally landed in San Salvador at her Friends place at 7.30pm that evening. Bloody brilliant!

What a day. A day of luck but damn, talk about challenge bloody Annicker. I guess these are the joys of travelling, ....and its only been a month! Shiiittttt!

BELIZE

2008-08-14T21:26:00.012+02:00

BELIZE 25-31 July

Belize, Caye Caulker
Belize is completely different to Guatemala although they are neighbours the contrast is stark. i hadn´t even planned on visiting Belize, but hey that´s the joy of travelling, each day is NEW. I was travelling up with some gringos (yanks), took the bus over the border and then a boat to Caye Caulker. A very chilled out, no car allowed, Caribbean island that has the Blue Hole (google it if you don't know it). I went snorkeling seeing as i didn´t have my PADI. That being said i did see a small Shark feeding, many manta rays, silky smooth with large wings and lots of little fish
among the coral.

Although Belize is an ex-British colony and everyone speaks English, there is a very strong US influence on popular culture such as music, clothes, food etc. Furthermore, there does seem to be a lot more infrastructure in place when compared to Guatemala. Such brick houses, electricity pylon's, efficiency and things generally working. It seems strange to me because the local Rastafarian belizian is quite chilled out and lazy, its the Chinese than run all the corner shops and supermarkets so i don't know how they got all their ducks in a row. Maybe the US helped.

I also spent a couple of days at Dangriga to visit Tobacco Key. Dangriga is nothing to speak of, somewhat down trodden. Sometimes the locals were friendly (if money is involved) and sometimes there don´t care to notice you are there. The reef was very similar to that at Caye Caulker.

Finally my last days were spent at Placencia waiting for the weekly boat to go to Honduras. It was a nice enough small town on a peninsular however i just couldn't believe the litter on the beach. i even took a photo of it and when i went to the tourist to buy my boat ticket, i told them what i thought. Later that day they started digging holes in the sand and burying the rubbish as opposed to using a bin bag to collect it. What can i say? I guess litter is only a worry for the West. It certainly doesn't seem to be a worry for the people here.

GUATEMALA

2008-07-27T18:13:00.036+02:00

GUATEMALA (8-27 july)

When i arrived in Antigua I really landed on my feet which was a stroke of luck as my first stop on my tour. Guatemala is such a rich country with very friendly locals. I spent my first week in Antigua, a beautiful town a few hours from the Capital, Guatemala City. I felt safe. Aside from doing some Spanish lessons i visited my first ever live molten lava volcano, Pacaya volcano, with molten lava pouring out everywhere (video below). Just amazing. The town itself is very clean, safe and colorful, the school kids all in there uniforms. It was a good first place to come to and get a feeling of the country. A bit of a fairy land town i thought ;-).

San Marcos, Lago de Atitlan
From Antigua i took the bus to Lago de Atitlan. It is this most magical mountain lake i have ever seen, surrounded by volcanoes on all sides, crystal clear water. I stayed at San Marcos and just chilled the hell out although i did do a three day guided meditation course which was an interesting starting point. Learning to listen to the silence thereby hearing your heart and being, ...on to your path. I hope to do more. I visited the huge local market at Chichicastenango and bought some lovely Mayan bits and have now sent them home. Hope they get there! You really saw the true Mayan village people here as you did in Antigua, it is a busy market. All going on i tell you!

Semuc Champey

My last and final week in Guatemala was spent partly in Semuc Champuy where i swam in underground rivers in caves. We were given a candle each because it was pitch black and then went for ages swimming into the caves, jumping of rocks into pitch black water. Of course all with a guide thank goodness. Treading carefully behind a waterfall in the dark, grabbing a rope and safely coming out the other side. Then in the same day these Israels and i went on to these limestone rock pool formations, like steps, crystal clear fresh water in a huge mountain valley. Turquoise rock pools. Nature just simply being beautiful, again.

TIKAL
Finally i visited the mother of all Mayan ruins, TIKAL. Tikal is in the North of Guatemala, located in the rain forest. The Mayan civilization went from 2000BC to around 800AD. There domain ran from the middle of Mexico to Costa Rica, basically all of Central America. Of the 2.5Mil Mayans, 100,000 lived in and around Tikal, the HQ of the Mayan civilization. They built all these temples without any use of the wheel, any metal tools or animals. Just human sweat. (no doubt just to keep the people busy so they didn´t think - ring a bell?)

I did the sunrise tour leaving at 4am to get there in the dark. We walked for about an hour through the rain forest, all you could hear were howler monkeys making what sounded like mating calls. Really loud. We walked an hour to get to the ruins and sat on top of one of the temples waiting for the sun to rise. You could see and hear Howler monkeys, all kinds of birds, all the noises of the forest just getting louder as the sun rose. Really peaceful and beautiful. We had a very good guide who told us about all the Mayan civilization, how it died out (due to no rain for about 40-120yrs) and many other things. Now today you see the indigenous people of the Mayan civilization thriving in modern Guatemala.

I really enjoyed Guatemala. It has a rich and varied landscape and lovely people. I am so happy this was my first country, however i am now onto Belize in the Caribbean to Dive and Snorkel on the second largest barrier reef in the world (after Australia).

What an adventure!

My "tentative" Itinerary

2008-07-25T02:30:00.008+02:00

MY WORLD TOUR – 18 Months (see the black line on the maps)

Part 1: CENTRAL AMERICA

Guatemala
Antigua for a week
San Marcos, Lago de Atitlan for a week
On to Semuc Champuy Caves and Limestone water pools before going to TIKAL, the mother of all Mayan sites (and a UNESCO site)

Belize
Stay at Caye Caulker and dive/snorkel in the second largest barrier reef in the world after Australia. Plus chill out at Hopkins bay. just staying a few days.

Honduras
Stay in the Bay Islands in the Caribbean, Roatan island to do my open water PADI diving course
From Roatan go via Copan Mayan Ruins on the way towards El Salvador.

El Salvador
Will surf down the Pacific coast oi El Salvador mainly staying in the top and bottom part of the coast, will miss out the capital Libertad. Want to become a Surf Demon.

Nicaragua
Visit Leon and Granada then stay at the Isla de Ometepe. One of the largest fresh water lakes in Latin America (after Lake Titikaka)
Head for the pacific coast south and surf to costa rica

Costa Rica
Back towards the Pacific Coast towards Costa Rica. Passing via Monteverde then back on to the coast.
Will head inland at some point through Costa Rica, to the Caribbean coast. Party central at Cahuta/Talamanca

Panama
Into Panama i will chill out on the Caribbean coast for a while before taking a 5 day boat trip from Colon through the Caribbean to Cartegena, Colombia

Part 2: SOUTH AMERICA
Colombia
Stay at Cartegena, visit Tayronas national park, Santa Marta, Volcano de Lodo El Totumo, Playa Blanca
Then via Mompos onto Bucaramanga on route to Bogotá visiting Barichara & San Gil (eco-tourism), Villa de Leyva (horse riding) and Suesca (rafting)
Then head on south – possible via Los Nevaods (white capped Andean mountains)
Bus to San Agustin (archaeological site) and visit Tierradentro, Parque Nacional Purace.
Popayan. Onto Pasto, visit Laguna de la Cocha and then on to the Ecuador border.

Ecuador
Stop at Otavalo (biggest Saturday market in south America) and possible Mindo (hike the last Andean cloud forest) on the way to the Capital Quito
In Quito stay in the old town La floresta. Quito has amazing views and botanical gardens. Amazonian Museum. Plus 1-2 mountain bike and rafting trips from Quito·
30km south east – must see natural reserve Refugio de vida Silvestre Pasochoa further south towards Volcano Cotopaxi and park Cotopaxi.
Either continue south east to Tena (rafting) or south west to Laguna Quilotoa (Volcanic crater lake) and on to Banos (Amazon treks, thermal baths, rafting) & Riobamba (down hill mountain bike ride)
Riobamba take the death train to Sibambe. From there on to the Inca ruins of Ingapirca. Stay at Cuenca 2/3 days and visit Cajas national park

Peru
Surf in northern Mancora
The Andes in Huaraez, mountain biking and trekking
Cusco and Machu Picchu , rent a motor bike if poss

Bolivia
The Salt flat lakes
The worlds most dangerous road
San Pedro prison

Part 3: NEW ZEALAND & OZ
Land in Auckland, stay a couple of days and visit Routara, surf in Raglan
Fly to Queenstown, South Island and do some extreme sports
Head towards Milford Sound Fjord via Te Anau and Fox Glacier
Queenstown for New Year
Head up the east coast and round towards Christchurch
Fly from Christchurch to Sydney and stay friends. Visit Blue Mountain
Fly Sydney to Bangkok

Part 4: SOUTH EAST ASIA
Stay in Bangkok a few days.
Then to Siem Reap, Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Stay there for a few days.
From Siem Reap to Vientiane, Laos and travel up through Laos for 2-3 weeks to Luang Pang
From Luang Paung head north to Hanoi Vietnam and travel down the coast of Vietnam to Ho Chi Min
From Ho Chi Mi (Mekon Delta) to Bangkok. From there travel down the east coast of Thailand in to Malaysia and visit the Taman Negra rain forest
Go via Singapore (see friends at) to Indonesia
Visit the island of Java and Borrodur temple and Bali, Borneo and the Gili islands
Fly from Bali to Singapore and then on to New Delhi

Part 5: INDIA & NEPAL
From New Delhi get the hell out of there. Visit the Taj Mahal for sure.
Rishikesh for yoga and meditation ashrams, vipassana meditation
Head further north to Mc Loed Ganj for the Tushita buddhist retreat
On to Leh Ladak via Manali
Then via Varanassi onto Nepal for 2-3weeks trekking in the Himalayas - Pokhara. Hang out in Sarangkot and Nepal before Kopan monastry retreat in November 2009

...my awakening

2008-06-28T11:42:00.003+02:00

Awakening

This is quite personal account below however I have written this to share with you – to possible inspire you too. It was a key enabler of me realising my current dream.

I was brought up like a lot of my friends and peers – lucky enough to be brought up in a safe and stable environment, receive a good education and get a good job to ‘start my career’. I’m 35 now and have realised I have been doing my career for the past 15 years! Working my way up the slippery corporate ladder. I managed to earn a decent salary, got a mortgage, bought a place and all the trappings that go with property ownership. I must say that it was no easy ride – corporate life is tough and in my mind they don’t pay you much at all compared to the effort put in (as a small business owner the risks are higher but so are the rewards yet with the same effort).

However one night about two years ago (winter 2006) I was sitting waiting for a taxi at my place when I realised that I wasn’t actually that truly happy. It was a moment when it all came to ahead, I asked myself, ‘what am I doing here, surely there must be more to my life than this’. This was not a sudden or new feeling it had been growing for a long time very subtly but just went unnoticed in the pace of my life. During this very low ebb my sister told me to read The Celestine Prophecy by James Redfield. It might help to make things in life seem clearer. While reading it I really began to understand what they were talking about, life’s path, coincidences & signs, energy & nature. Religion, well I just haven’t been able to agree with it a 100% however Spirituality, it does make a lot more sense to me. well you should read the book yourself to understand but it has given me a whole new strength and confidence. Unbelievable.

The point I am trying to make now is that I am starting to believe that there is more to life than the visible, tangible artefacts in our world. Something more powerful. Something even that you can use to influence your own future and destiny through intention and attraction (I know you think its crazy – I did too). Anyway I am not going to go on but I will say that this, it has been a very conscious decision to travel around the world and ever since I took that decision all has been falling into place – as if I was meant to do this.

What I do want out of this journey? Time. Time away from the wheel. Time away from the noise. Time to think, to reflect & to start to better understand me. Of course I want to experience everything & everyone. However, ultimately through getting to know myself better, understanding what makes me happy, I want to make (other) conscious decisions & choices about the rest of my life and NOT carry on like I have before (like a horse with blinkers on). I want to give life, the universe, the people & events I come across the opportunity to influence the course of my path – for the better. How exciting!

...the beginning

2008-04-21T22:35:00.000+02:00

Dear friends & family,

i wanted to give you a little introduction to my life changing adventure and why i have chosen to do this.

the thought of travelling the world has been in my mind since i was about 16 or 18 years of age. i got the first taste of it travelling with a good friend Toby for three months in France in his mini cooper. I loved it. We were 16!

Ever since for some reason or another i have just been working, i just got caught up in the rate race on the career ladder having odd 2-3 week holidays, getting a small taste of what it would be like to travel but that was all. Time goes by fast - that is true. Before i knew it i was 30yrs old and had been in the corporate 'rat race' for 10 years.

During the last few years the thought of wanting to see the world has been growing stronger. Thailand (2005) was another reminder, spending 3 weeks in the north and south of the country. the people were so friendly. the country was so green and beautiful. but then i had to go back to concrete ville.

I think the final straw was in Brazil (2007) having spent all morning surfing, i was sitting on the beach, listening to music, writing in my journal when i just knew that if i did not act upon my feelings of travel i would live with regret all the rest of my life. on the other hand, if i took the decision to make this big step, it could be one of the best decisions of my life. funny how these are both opposites (biggest regret / best decision).

After Brazil i started to think very seriously about changing the course of my life. i talked it through with my family at Christmas (they're all in panic mode now - shock & horror ;-). Then in begin January i went through a long period of doubt for about 2-3 weeks. why leave my career, safety zone, creature comforts, easy life etc etc. I actually came out of this period with even more conviction and i decided in February (2008) that i would take this huge step and make this change happen. i would leave the 'rat race and join the human race'.

i researched it further, talked it through with my work and got an agreement for a 12 month sabbatical - starting July 1st 2008. Amazing i know! well that is taking destiny into your own hands and choosing life!

Today (April 2008) i still have thoughts of fear, what am i doing, will i be ok/safe on my own. i mean, this is no lite decision, tell me how many people you know who have travelled the world on their own for a year?

Anyway, i have made my decision, i am now in full planning mode and am happy to say i will be visiting all the countries and continents i want to see, namely Latin America, South East Asia and India.

I will post my itinerary and will try and keep some sort of blog of whats going on and would appreciate any emails back from you. plus feel free to come and visit me anywhere along the trip. just pick a country or a time and visit.

So that's my story. i shall close it here for now and look forward to my travels and sharing some of my experiences with you (in your arm chair).

take care and wish me luck

Luke.